914 Water pump, Yes a SBC |
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914 Water pump, Yes a SBC |
drive-ability |
Oct 20 2009, 01:51 PM
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,169 Joined: 18-March 05 From: Orange County, California Member No.: 3,782 |
I'm replacing my Renegade/Chrysler BB pump, since it locked up last night. I didn't here any noise at all ? The engine does make a bit of noise but you would think there would be some warning. Nope ! Maybe something broke off and jammed up the impeller etc. The pump just locked up and melted the drive belt. My question is I have been running a standard pump and decided to get a high volume unit. My assumption is the quality is better than my last one and with A/C it might perform better moving more water. I guess with more pressure comes it own set of issues. One thought is the belt was too tight, and that's a good bet. I'm not running a Thermostat but am running a minor restriction in the thermostat housing, which I think I should remove.. ? Any one have any input here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif) |
SLITS |
Oct 29 2009, 06:22 PM
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Ok, last shot at this subject.
The man I am talking to worked with Rod Simpson on his designs and also Weiand on their designs. One of the problems of the pumps was that they would cavitate on transition from idle to motion (starting and stopping in traffic). This would destroy the seal, but not the impeller. Rod Simpson's problem was the diameter of the lines running to and from the radiator. Overheating was a problem due to pressure and diameter needed to push the water up and back about 6' each way and the type of radiator used. He couldn't remember what diameter line was finally finalized (work was done in the 80's) Another problem that can occur is the RPM of the water pump which is controlled by drive pulley size. You spin a pump to fast and it will cavitate. Much work has been done on pulley size to optimize impeller speed. Now back to the water pump itself. Cast iron or stamped steel should not make any great difference in flow, but the cast iron blades are somewhat cupped which enchances water capture (just think boat propeller). We said that the weak point on the stamped steel was the notch at the base of the blade. Some manufacturers either welded a plate on top of the fins or at least a donut to stabilize the fins. That's one fix. Also, the fins (or the donut / plate) should be no farther away from the back housing than 1/32" (0.031"). Father away will create cavitation and lessen pumping capability. That's about it ...... carry on ....................... |
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