914 Water pump, Yes a SBC Options

[drive-ability]

I'm replacing my Renegade/Chrysler BB pump, since it locked up last night. I didn't here any noise at all ? The engine does make a bit of noise but you would think there would be some warning. Nope ! Maybe something broke off and jammed up the impeller etc. The pump just locked up and melted the drive belt.
My question is I have been running a standard pump and decided to get a high volume unit. My assumption is the quality is better than my last one and with A/C it might perform better moving more water. I guess with more pressure comes it own set of issues. One thought is the belt was too tight, and that's a good bet.
I'm not running a Thermostat but am running a minor restriction in the thermostat housing, which I think I should remove.. ?

Any one have any input here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif)

[GS Guy]

Pretty sure the "Renegade way" is to use a 1" line from engine to radiator and 1-1/4" line from radiator back to the water pump. It was stated the smaller "hot" line was to speed up flow, reducing the return time. It also creates slightly more internal pressure inside the engine, I presume to help reduce chances of hot spots in the heads and promote heat transfer. Larger return line to the pump to give a nice lower pressure steady feed back into the pump and combined with the pump housing inlet shape - minimize cavitation. They claim this works exceptionally well (with their radiator of course!) in the hot 100F+ Nevada heat with the AC on....

I can imagine the 1" line would increase pressure against the water pump, but can't imagine any pressure increases causing that kind of pump damage? I would gather full warm-up would be the order of the day before any significant revving - else too much pressure is built up - maybe blowing off hoses?

Jeff