What do you have for chassis stiffening? |
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What do you have for chassis stiffening? |
Justinp71 |
Sep 29 2008, 07:14 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,600 Joined: 11-October 04 From: Sacramento, CA Member No.: 2,922 Region Association: None |
I put some more horsepower in my car, so far I have just autocrossed it on street tires. I have the bolt in roll bar that has the mid bar going to the floor.
Besides that my chassis is stock and I am wondering what I should do for more re-enforcement... so I can comfortably run on slicks. Below is a photo of the roll bar. I don't consider the roll bar to give to much chassis stiffening, but it just might help with cracking the longs. Edit: I mainly just use the car for street and the occasional Autocross or DE Attached image(s) |
J P Stein |
Dec 12 2009, 07:01 PM
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#2
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
It doesn't take an engineering degree to see where the points of load are on a 914......hint....there are 4 and round black things right near em'.
Once that tough bit is over, then you gotta figure out where you can attach structure & how to bridge between them. As Brit wrote, a butt dyno reveals a huge difference. The chassis moves more like a single unit and the suspension does it's work in a more controlled manner. This causes the car do the same thing every time when loaded....or close enuff. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) BTW, there is closer to 60 lbs than 20 lbs extra. Bridges aren't light. |
Randal |
Dec 12 2009, 10:05 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,446 Joined: 29-May 03 From: Los Altos, CA Member No.: 750 |
It doesn't take an engineering degree to see where the points of load are on a 914......hint....there are 4 and round black things right near em'. Once that tough bit is over, then you gotta figure out where you can attach structure & how to bridge between them. As Brit wrote, a butt dyno reveals a huge difference. The chassis moves more like a single unit and the suspension does it's work in a more controlled manner. This causes the car do the same thing every time when loaded....or close enuff. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) BTW, there is closer to 60 lbs than 20 lbs extra. Bridges aren't light. I've taken JP's approach on adding front and rear bars tied in front to the shock towers, then to the front torsion bar mounting. In the back we have run the bars as close to the towers as possible, although not as nice as JP did it. Can't wait to see the performance difference. Who knows, with a clear head, the car might be competitive. |
J P Stein |
Dec 13 2009, 11:06 AM
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#4
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
I've taken JP's approach on adding front and rear bars tied in front to the shock towers, then to the front torsion bar mounting. In the back we have run the bars as close to the towers as possible, although not as nice as JP did it. Can't wait to see the performance difference. Who knows, with a clear head, the car might be competitive. My car is no shining example. It's kinda like a house remodel.....rip this out add this here...and here.....here too.....since I've got the welder fired up & this estra stuff is just laying around. No original ideas, just built on other folks'. IF I knew then what I know now, it would be lighter & prettier....prolly safer too. Mine is the homebuilt CSOB method......my whole 914 project was like that...learn & build as you go. I wouldn't want anyone to think I had an overall plan. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Attached thumbnail(s) |
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