Buick/Rover aluminum v8 to 914 conversion |
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Buick/Rover aluminum v8 to 914 conversion |
streetrover |
Dec 22 2009, 09:30 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 87 Joined: 22-December 09 From: Inland Empire Member No.: 11,163 Region Association: Southern California |
Hello everyone! OK, I've got an empty 914 in my driveway and a 4.0 liter Rover engine in my garage. A Buick 4bbl intake is en route as is an Edelbrock carb. I've got lots of questions about clearance, most notably about the distributor. The Rover engine came stock with a "crankshaft angle sensor" and individual coils. It'd be great to use this instead of the distributor but I don't know if I can run this ignition system without the "computer" that also controls the fuel injection. If I need to go with the distributor instead that's fine but then how do I overcome clearance restrictions? I would REALLY love to talk to someone with this conversion completed!!!
Thanks, Bob |
Krank |
Jan 13 2010, 12:25 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 140 Joined: 11-October 09 From: Winnipeg, MB Member No.: 10,922 Region Association: Canada |
I have two 215 Olds engines. The Olds engines have 6 head bolts and the Buick versions have only 5. One is rebuilt sitting on an engine stand waiting for oil pump issues to be ironed out and the other is still in the donor car. I originally was going to rebuild my 2 DR '62 Olds F85 and use the motor in that but as with most uni-bodies there is only so much work you want to put into a project. The amount of sheet metal work was just too much for this cowboy. So I found a '74 914 roller to drop my motor into. BTW, anyone looking for 1962 Olds body parts? LOL
As far as the expansion section in that manifold that Streetover has, it is just as mentioned, it is for compensating for expansion in the steel. There may be a stainless steel weave sound blanket that you can steal off a Lexus exhaust connector and wrap then secure but personally I don't think you would reduce the exhaust noise very much at all. Headers of all type are noisy! Period! With an engine that close to your ear expect a lot of engine noise to start with. On the up side you can save your money by not selecting a very expensive sound system for the car. Steel headers, as a result of their design, are also a lot more prone to cracking than cast manifolds. Now this being said it all depends on your driving habits, planned use for the car, passenger comfort needed (wife, girlfriend, other) as to manifold/header choice. Thanks to everyone with all the ignition tips. I just may change over to distributorless. I had converted the OEM distributor for points to solid state but just because I already had a good distributor. For clearance I just may change over. Is the manifold you picked up an Edelbrock 2198? I am going to use my stock one but there is some moderate pitting around the coolant passages at the rear of the manifold so the Edlebrock one may be the replacement. |
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