A list of all things that could make a L-Jet Jerky, now with ............Pics of my troubled head Options

[jsayre914]

I have a great daily driver. 1.8 L motor with L-jet injection, and it jerks like a son of a %^$%. It has all new vacume lines, none of wich are leaking (idles smooth at 900rpm) i have blocked off the deceleration valve. It was not letting the idle come back down fast enough for my taste. New jugs rings pistons etc. It has new plugs and wires. a new resistor pack and a newer duel relay. new alternator and new voltage regulator. Valves adjusted .006/ .008 perfectly with new valve cover gaskets. It has a new fuel pump and fuel filter, and many new wiring harness. Injectors were all cleaned and new screens put in. It runs up to 5K with no problems and runs strong to about 110mph on a flat. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)


Whe i accelerate easy it starts to jerk the whole way. If i try to run in 2nd or 3rd it jerks the whole time even at constant speed. sometimes i will seesaw the clutch just so i dont look to embarrising.

What is the list of things to check (i want to check everything) but i feel like i checked it all and then rechecked it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


one other problem probably related, i cant keep constant power to the fuel pump through the relay, it chokes off sometimes and dosnt want to come back (PITA) so i jumped the fuel pump lead to the + coil for now. (dont be mad) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[ClayPerrine]

First off.. readjust your valves. The Haynes manual has a typo for the valve adjustment specs for the 1.8. They should both be .006. The .008 setting is ONLY for the sodium filled valves that came in the 2.0 heads.



In the picture, the #1 is the fuel pump contact. If you open the AFM flap, that is what turns the pump on. #2 is the wiper contacts that send the air flow information to the computer.

DO NOT ADJUST THE AIR FLOW METER SPRING TENSION!! It is calibrated properly for the engine, and takes a special tool to readjust. Been there, done that. I even own the tool to readjust them. I suggest that you don't open the air flow meter at all.

Check to see if the boot between the air flow meter and the throttle body is cracked. It will cause bucking if it is. Also inspect the harness carefully for broken or cracked wiring.

I agree with the distributor advance plate issue. Try this... disconnect the vacuum advance and retard lines and see if it still bucks.