Buick/Rover aluminum v8 to 914 conversion Options

[streetrover]

Hello everyone! OK, I've got an empty 914 in my driveway and a 4.0 liter Rover engine in my garage. A Buick 4bbl intake is en route as is an Edelbrock carb. I've got lots of questions about clearance, most notably about the distributor. The Rover engine came stock with a "crankshaft angle sensor" and individual coils. It'd be great to use this instead of the distributor but I don't know if I can run this ignition system without the "computer" that also controls the fuel injection. If I need to go with the distributor instead that's fine but then how do I overcome clearance restrictions? I would REALLY love to talk to someone with this conversion completed!!!

Thanks,
Bob

[codices]

Krank,

If you have the engine mounted in your "teener" we need pictures. Thanks.

Dave

[Cheapsnake]

Krank,

If you have the engine mounted in your "teener" we need pictures. Thanks.

Dave

x2. C'mon, cough em up.

I have to question andys comment that the Olds engine was the better of the two. Yes, it had the extra bolt in the heads, apparently to accommodate the pressures from the turbo, but aside from that the engines are 100% identical. Even the value of the extra head bolt is questionable, since Rover dropped it from all their configurations. This is not to start a "Olds vs. Buick" debate, they are both great little engines that are perfectly suited for our teeners. The fact is, they are getting hard to find and if you can find either one in good shape, grab it, regardless of its maker.

Tom

[andys]

Krank,

If you have the engine mounted in your "teener" we need pictures. Thanks.

Dave

x2. C'mon, cough em up.

I have to question andys comment that the Olds engine was the better of the two. Yes, it had the extra bolt in the heads, apparently to accommodate the pressures from the turbo, but aside from that the engines are 100% identical. Even the value of the extra head bolt is questionable, since Rover dropped it from all their configurations. This is not to start a "Olds vs. Buick" debate, they are both great little engines that are perfectly suited for our teeners. The fact is, they are getting hard to find and if you can find either one in good shape, grab it, regardless of its maker.

Tom

Tom,

Being that the block, heads, and pistons were different between the two makes them rather far removed from 100% identical. Back in those days, the Olds was always prefered over the Buick version mostly because the heads were much better due to the prefered exhaust port arrangement. Being that the Buick version continued on with modern development, it of course prevails today. Agreed however is that these are great little motors even by todays standards.

Andys

[Krank]

Krank,

If you have the engine mounted in your "teener" we need pictures. Thanks.

Dave

x2. C'mon, cough em up.

I have to question andys comment .......The fact is, they are getting hard to find and if you can find either one in good shape, grab it, regardless of its maker.

Tom

Tom,

Being that the block, heads, and pistons were different between the two makes them rather far removed from 100% identical. ...... Agreed however is that these are great little motors even by todays standards.

Andys

Hey Guys,
I haven't looked at this post for awhile and I know there is a way to tag a post but I don't know how on this kind of forum. Yes, there is differences between the Buick and the Olds engines. The Olds block was the only engine used as a "stock block" engine in F1 racing - ever! Both by Dan Gurney and Mickey Thompson used these engines and I believe there used to be high performance con rods designed by Dan Gurney available. They apparently worked very well with the later Rover forged crank and the GM 300 cu in heads (the 215 replacement engine available in 1964). This set-up resulted in a 5.0L engine around 450 lbs fully dressed. I don't know the torque and HP values but this would certainly be a sweet setup.

As far as this thread goes how can I tag it so I can find it again or be notified of a post because all this information here is invaluable!! Great work. As far as pictures go, the only one I could send in are the ones that the majority of members cameras and computers are full of. The same rusting/bent heap found in some in the back yard of some derelict crack house. Actually I am approaching this project differently. As i remove an item in need of overhaul or replacement I do what is required for that item and store it away as a ready to install part. that way after the shell is fully fluffed all I have to do is assemble a kit car so to speak. No painful waiting, searching, hoping, stealing, borrowing, beggi...you know what I mean.

My plans are to use a remote water pump, dry sump oil system is too expensive/complicated for me, and put it in to get on the road. the winters here are long and cold so i have lots of time for tweaking between seasons. some of the posts here do however have my loins quivering on the FI options. I am in the process of repowering my '53 1300 GMC as the regular fuel tap of a Holley washed out the main bearings in the SBC in it. So many things...so little time.

Wow....is that what that little check box "Enable email notification of replies? " at the bottom is for??? DUH!

O.K. enough is enough, I am old...I tend to ramble