Let's save another 914, and get it decent., Probably need advice from you old school 914 folk Options

[ghuff]

So here is the rust on this one. It's a 75 cali car it's entire life.

Get the worst over to begin. Let us take a look at the hell hole. It was solid, and even passed teh screwdriver/hammer test....

*until* it soaked in metal ready a while... then the screwdriver test started picking out giant holes which you see here. It is still soaking, and has been on/off for days not to eat away more to see what metal is truly left. Next step is a grinder or non-hand tool of sorts to break deep into the pitting and see what truly is through.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img196.imageshack.us-179-1269644411.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img197.imageshack.us-179-1269644412.2.jpg)

[Lennies914]

I'm cutting up a '73 now. Is the section for the door handle recess something you might need? Let me know how far you need to go once you remove all the bondo. If we can keep it small shipping shouldn't be much.

[ghuff]

I'm cutting up a '73 now. Is the section for the door handle recess something you might need? Let me know how far you need to go once you remove all the bondo. If we can keep it small shipping shouldn't be much.

Thanks. I have to see what happens.


I am currently performing surgical extraction of the welded on plates. Both on the doors, and fenders.

I am being very slow and patient, I would be tickled pink to keep the original sheet metal on the vehicle.

I am also almost entirely finished stripping the passenger side of the vehicle.

Am looking for holes. I remember another poster here mention using a brass block to keep the weld from building or sticking up....

I wonder if I can do that behind the holes, and fill them slowly with .023 wire and let it cool.......

I could also do what Ric Ollah suggested and kwales, use copper pipe to heatsink areas.

I found some wire mesh and filler on the fender to windshield area

It has to be metal when I am done. I am now glad I am stripping it to bare metal, as I can not stand half assed. I will do this right if I have to buy a metal brake and practice a lot.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[Andyrew]

I'm cutting up a '73 now. Is the section for the door handle recess something you might need? Let me know how far you need to go once you remove all the bondo. If we can keep it small shipping shouldn't be much.

Thanks. I have to see what happens.


I am currently performing surgical extraction of the welded on plates. Both on the doors, and fenders.

I am being very slow and patient, I would be tickled pink to keep the original sheet metal on the vehicle.

I am also almost entirely finished stripping the passenger side of the vehicle.

Am looking for holes. I remember another poster here mention using a brass block to keep the weld from building or sticking up....

I wonder if I can do that behind the holes, and fill them slowly with .023 wire and let it cool.......

I could also do what Ric Ollah suggested and kwales, use copper pipe to heatsink areas.

I found some wire mesh and filler on the fender to windshield area

It has to be metal when I am done. I am now glad I am stripping it to bare metal, as I can not stand half assed. I will do this right if I have to buy a metal brake and practice a lot.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

The brass block actually helps you from burning through and also helps you to fill holes because your weld gets held in the place you want it rather than falling down. Aluminum works good, Brass works better, Copper works as well. Just any metal other than steel.

When you get to really welding, Post some pics of your welds, I've seen so many people get by with crappy welds that I hate it.. It only takes a second and I could help you really get it down better.