V8 and liquid cooled guys..., Want to install a heater??? Here's mine Options

[Mike Bellis]

It gets cold here in Northern California often in the moorning. So I decided to build a liquid heater. First, I spent some time measuring the inside of the fresh air box. I figured I could fit a core 11x6 maximum. my son and I spent several hours at the local Pick and Pull junk yard. I settled on a Transmission cooler from a late model Ford Truck. Cooler measures 10x6.



I quick placement and I realize I need to cut! The water dam for the fan must be cut down. Make sure not to cut all of it so that it will still keep some water off the motor.



The finish cut to the dam. Ready for the lid? Not yet.

[computers4kids]

Mike,
How does this NAPA part compare to the Ford part you used. Now that you've done the fab work, would you have done it differently?

How thick is that Ford core?
Thanks,Mark

[Mike Bellis]

Mike,
How does this NAPA part compare to the Ford part you used. Now that you've done the fab work, would you have done it differently?

How thick is that Ford core?
Thanks,Mark

I think this one is too thick. You would need to remove all of the rain shield to get it to fit. The plumbing looks like it might be a problem too. The one I have is 10x6x1 and almost fits perfectly. The plumbing is easy and right between the air box and gas tank. The design of the core I have is a "cross flow" and made for maximum oil cooling. I think it will conduct heat really well. I paid $25 at the junk yard and it is is perfect condition. I had to run some carb cleaner through it to get all the tranny fluid out. I flushed it with water and it looks brand new.
If you want to make a new plenum from fiberglass, a bigger core can fit but it would be much more fab work. I spent 2 hours making this and 24 hours waiting for the mastic to cure to seal the housing. I just ordered some high performance, insulated heater hose in bulk. I'm thinking of running it in the factory heater tube in the long. I'm going to install some new aluminum flex hose to insulate it further where it comes up through the floor. I think this will seal excess heat out of the cabin.

[strawman]

I think this one is too thick. You would need to remove all of the rain shield to get it to fit. The plumbing looks like it might be a problem too. The one I have is 10x6x1 and almost fits perfectly. The plumbing is easy and right between the air box and gas tank. The design of the core I have is a "cross flow" and made for maximum oil cooling. I think it will conduct heat really well. I paid $25 at the junk yard and it is is perfect condition. I had to run some carb cleaner through it to get all the tranny fluid out. I flushed it with water and it looks brand new.
If you want to make a new plenum from fiberglass, a bigger core can fit but it would be much more fab work. I spent 2 hours making this and 24 hours waiting for the mastic to cure to seal the housing. I just ordered some high performance, insulated heater hose in bulk. I'm thinking of running it in the factory heater tube in the long. I'm going to install some new aluminum flex hose to insulate it further where it comes up through the floor. I think this will seal excess heat out of the cabin.

Hi Mike --

Great post! I am just now trying to figure out the heating system for my Suby conversion, so the timing is perfect.

Why run the hoses through the heater tubes? Why not just tap into the "in" side of the radiator hose?

Geoff

[Mike Bellis]

I think this one is too thick. You would need to remove all of the rain shield to get it to fit. The plumbing looks like it might be a problem too. The one I have is 10x6x1 and almost fits perfectly. The plumbing is easy and right between the air box and gas tank. The design of the core I have is a "cross flow" and made for maximum oil cooling. I think it will conduct heat really well. I paid $25 at the junk yard and it is is perfect condition. I had to run some carb cleaner through it to get all the tranny fluid out. I flushed it with water and it looks brand new.
If you want to make a new plenum from fiberglass, a bigger core can fit but it would be much more fab work. I spent 2 hours making this and 24 hours waiting for the mastic to cure to seal the housing. I just ordered some high performance, insulated heater hose in bulk. I'm thinking of running it in the factory heater tube in the long. I'm going to install some new aluminum flex hose to insulate it further where it comes up through the floor. I think this will seal excess heat out of the cabin.

Hi Mike --

Great post! I am just now trying to figure out the heating system for my Suby conversion, so the timing is perfect.

Why run the hoses through the heater tubes? Why not just tap into the "in" side of the radiator hose?

Geoff

My radiator runs super cool, too cool. And... I don't have any air in the radiator, so why induce it by cutting into it. When I drive the car, the temp never gets above 150 unless I'm stopped long enough. I have the heater connections on the engine already (although plugged). So if I use the factory heater connection, I only have to purge air out of the heater system. Also, I considered using the radiator but there was no really clean way th get hoses up the the air box. I could drill holes and run under the gas tank, but that would heat up the fuel. The tube in the long is already there doing nothing. It was designed for heat. There is not really any sharp edges in there. I also could have run the lines similar to the factory A/C lines. But then the hoses are in the wheel wells and more holes have to be drilled.

[strawman]

My radiator runs super cool, too cool. And... I don't have any air in the radiator, so why induce it by cutting into it. When I drive the car, the temp never gets above 150 unless I'm stopped long enough. I have the heater connections on the engine already (although plugged). So if I use the factory heater connection, I only have to purge air out of the heater system. Also, I considered using the radiator but there was no really clean way th get hoses up the the air box. I could drill holes and run under the gas tank, but that would heat up the fuel. The tube in the long is already there doing nothing. It was designed for heat. There is not really any sharp edges in there. I also could have run the lines similar to the factory A/C lines. But then the hoses are in the wheel wells and more holes have to be drilled.

Hi Mike,

Kewl, let me know how it goes. I'm not too far away -- and I appreciate the fiberglass rear trunk lid -- so PM me if I can help you with the install.

Geoff