Basic Maintenance Threads?, do they exist?? Options

[rwilner]

I'm about to purchase my first 914 and am wondering if there are any basic routine maintenance threads available, for example:

• Changing Oil and Filter (and what's the right oil type and interval)
• Changing other fluids (trans, brake, etc) and what the preferred fluids are
• Changing spark plugs and proper torque settings
• Changing Headlamps and other lamps
• Changing cabin filter (is there one??)
• etc.

Normally I'd just go in and muck about...but breaking clips, lenses, and screws on a 36 year old car may make for expensive and lengthy replacements.

I've done some searching for this stuff and come up empty so I apologize in advance if I missed it. It could be because there's a book or two that all you guys have that I need to buy that covers all this stuff.

Thanks and looking forward to joining the madness! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Rich

[Cap'n Krusty]

In moderate weather, 20w50, a Mann, Mahle, or Hengst filter, NEVER anything else. I consider it important to drop and clean the sump screen at each oil change. The valves should be adjusted when you change the oil, about every 3000 miles. Be careful when you reinstall the screen and cover, the torque on the nut is not more than 11 ft/lbs! The valve adjustment procedure is found in the classic forum, here at the World. Cabin air filters first appeared in cars about 20 years after the 914 was built, so I would guess you don't have to spend a lot of time worrying about that. Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment, cap and rotor as needed, condenser (again, Bosch only!) only when the points show pretty severe pitting. There are 914s out there running the original condenser. Brake fluid (DOT 4) every 2 years, tranny oil when you feel you just HAVE to do it (it doesn't wear out and get fulla crap like motor oil) and it's 89-90, 90, or 80/90-140 GL5 ONLY. No one-size-fits-all, and no MoSO2! No GL4! Headlight bulbs are held in place by 3 rusted in screws per bulb, accessible after the plastic cover is removed (2 screws). Other bulbs just twist in, like any other bayonet base bulb. Be SURE you get the right bulb. Match what you have, don't listen to the Bozo behind the parts counter. While we're on it, it's best to stick with genuine Bosch electrical components wherever they're used in the car. FLAPS guys will nearly always try to sell you cheap junk that doesn't fit. I recommend GPR, active participants on this site. Oh, torques, etc. Plugs get tightened until the crush ring crushes, points get sea ta .016" (dwell is 47 degrees +/- 2), timing for a D-jet car is 28 degrees BTDC at 2800 RPM, vacuum lines off and plugged. Plug gap is .028". Always remove the tranny filler plug (17mm inhex) BEFORE you drain it. If it's stuck, you can't refill the tranny. Synthetic gear oil is fine, but it costs a TON, and isn't really any better. Clutch adjustment is 19-22mm of free play when you PULL the pedal. Valve adjustment is .006" for all, unless you have a 2.0 with sodium filled exhaust valves, which are set at .008".

Oh, and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

The Cap'n

[rjames]

In moderate weather, 20w50, a Mann, Mahle, or Hengst filter, NEVER anything else. I consider it important to drop and clean the sump screen at each oil change. The valves should be adjusted when you change the oil, about every 3000 miles. Be careful when you reinstall the screen and cover, the torque on the nut is not more than 11 ft/lbs! The valve adjustment procedure is found in the classic forum, here at the World. Cabin air filters first appeared in cars about 20 years after the 914 was built, so I would guess you don't have to spend a lot of time worrying about that. Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment, cap and rotor as needed, condenser (again, Bosch only!) only when the points show pretty severe pitting. There are 914s out there running the original condenser. Brake fluid (DOT 4) every 2 years, tranny oil when you feel you just HAVE to do it (it doesn't wear out and get fulla crap like motor oil) and it's 89-90, 90, or 80/90-140 GL5 ONLY. No one-size-fits-all, and no MoSO2! No GL4! Headlight bulbs are held in place by 3 rusted in screws per bulb, accessible after the plastic cover is removed (2 screws). Other bulbs just twist in, like any other bayonet base bulb. Be SURE you get the right bulb. Match what you have, don't listen to the Bozo behind the parts counter. While we're on it, it's best to stick with genuine Bosch electrical components wherever they're used in the car. FLAPS guys will nearly always try to sell you cheap junk that doesn't fit. I recommend GPR, active participants on this site. Oh, torques, etc. Plugs get tightened until the crush ring crushes, points get sea ta .016" (dwell is 47 degrees +/- 2), timing for a D-jet car is 28 degrees BTDC at 2800 RPM, vacuum lines off and plugged. Plug gap is .028". Always remove the tranny filler plug (17mm inhex) BEFORE you drain it. If it's stuck, you can't refill the tranny. Synthetic gear oil is fine, but it costs a TON, and isn't really any better. Clutch adjustment is 19-22mm of free play when you PULL the pedal. Valve adjustment is .006" for all, unless you have a 2.0 with sodium filled exhaust valves, which are set at .008".

Oh, and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

The Cap'n

That's a kick-ass welcome!

Don't forget:
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

[rwilner]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

I haven't bought a car yet but if all goes well it will be in my garage on monday! That's assuming I can source a 7-pin trailer wiring harness for my truck either today or tomorrow...