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Pat Garvey |
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#1
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Do I or don't I...........? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,899 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
I'm starting to replace my original fuel tank because it has degraded inside (badly). Have a very nice replacement, but have some issues:
1. Fuel "socks". Can these be cleaned gently? Note in the attached pic that only one is viewable. The other is stuck in the tank. Ideas? Can I just drive it out with a drift pin? 2. Though this a more than decent tank, it has a horrible "rattle can" finish. I could refinish it myself, with many hours of labor, but it also needs to be boiled out. Why? Because USPS wouldn't let the PO ship it with sealant the "smelled funny". So, he had to remove it. Now, I have surface rust on the inside. Minor, but I don't want another mega problem down the road. So, I'm looking for suggestions, preferably within my area (SE PA). Looking for a total refurbishment, to factory specs. Pat Attached image(s) ![]() |
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avidfanjpl |
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#2
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914 Hemophiliac ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 720 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Bear, Delaware Member No.: 11,566 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
You are right behind me. I just finished my tank with the POR15 kit.
It worked astoundlingly, but you must do all 3 steps in order (marine clean, metal ready(stinky and be careful! and the por15 paint, even stinkier), and dry the first two steps with air. Then in all cases, tape the tank shut and roll it around to make sure ALL surfaces get covered. The POR15 silver paint worked stunningly. POUR OUT ALL EXCESS POR15 PAINT, and I even dabbed the slight excess still left with paper towels to get the little puddle out with a clever grabber tool. I am in cure mode and reinstall it midweek. The finish of the paint inside is stellar! I used Krylon satin black on the outside. Covered perfectly. New screen on the feed nipple, and I am throwing teflon tape on the threads just for grins. A lot of tape, I think. Good luck, and roll that tank till your arms ache each time, observing the timing for each product use. John |
realred914 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 1-April 10 From: california Member No.: 11,541 Region Association: None ![]() |
You are right behind me. I just finished my tank with the POR15 kit. It worked astoundlingly, but you must do all 3 steps in order (marine clean, metal ready(stinky and be careful! and the por15 paint, even stinkier), and dry the first two steps with air. Then in all cases, tape the tank shut and roll it around to make sure ALL surfaces get covered. The POR15 silver paint worked stunningly. POUR OUT ALL EXCESS POR15 PAINT, and I even dabbed the slight excess still left with paper towels to get the little puddle out with a clever grabber tool. I am in cure mode and reinstall it midweek. The finish of the paint inside is stellar! I used Krylon satin black on the outside. Covered perfectly. New screen on the feed nipple, and I am throwing teflon tape on the threads just for grins. A lot of tape, I think. Good luck, and roll that tank till your arms ache each time, observing the timing for each product use. John teflon tape wont help any leaks on the threads, the seal is with the gasket, not the threads. might make them easier to lossen later however, but anit-sieze is made for that function. I'd anti-sieze the threads rather than teflon tape them. the key to a leak free fitting is in the gasket and having correct tightness of the nut to make the gasket seal. these are not pipe threads, so the tape is really not appropreiate here. |
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