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Tom |
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None ![]() |
After putting new bushings in the trans bracket for the shifter rod, I still had a lot of slop. Taking it apart and measuring found the following. New Bushings are 0.600 inside dia and 0.815 outside dia. My bracket hole for the bushing is 0.830 and my rod is 0.588. Made another bushing for the rod that is slightly larger. Will get back later to let all know how it turns out.
Also made a couple of bushings for the yoke at the fire wall. Press fit and hone to fit pin. This tightened up that area very well. I used a white delrin material to make the bushings out of as this material is supposed to be good for this type of application. ![]() ![]() ![]() Later, Tom |
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Tom |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None ![]() |
Well, it has been several years now and shifting is still very good.
I used the delrin because I was having trouble finding oilite. An engineer at the shipyard told me most oilite applications were shifting to delrin. NOMAD, you would need to take measuremeents for some one to custom make a set for you. Do you have any friends with a lathe? Otherwise new bushings from a supplier will make things better, just not best. Tom |
Nürburg Nomad |
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#3
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914Rubber.com! ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 296 Joined: 30-March 10 From: Buckeye State Member No.: 11,536 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
Well, it has been several years now and shifting is still very good. I used the delrin because I was having trouble finding oilite. An engineer at the shipyard told me most oilite applications were shifting to delrin. NOMAD, you would need to take measuremeents for some one to custom make a set for you. Do you have any friends with a lathe? Otherwise new bushings from a supplier will make things better, just not best. Tom Thats good to hear! Way for me to bring back your thread from two years ago right?! I do have friends out of state who could potentially do a set but after hearing 914 owners relatively solid experience with the standard bushing sets I think I may just go that route for now and then upgrade to the whole crazy expensive Rennshift package down the road if I feel the desire to do so... I did make time to jack up the 914 and inspect the bushings when I had 15 minutes earlier; sure enough what little was left of the pair of shifter coupling bushings totally fell out when I pulled back the firewall boot so there is ZERO bushing now. Fortunately the coupler itself looks good but the lack of bushing explains why none of the rearward gears were engaging at all! The firewall and rear shift rod bushing have just a bit of slop, maybe .10" but I'll replace those too, I wasn't able to inspect the ball cup bushing inside of the inspection cover earlier since I was in a hurry and didn't want to crack it so I suppose I'll creep out to the car now and see what I can do. (Yes at 2:30am (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) Otherwise the rear shift rod boot was split in 3 spots so I found an appropriate reproduction of the discountinued part #914-424-239-02 at JWest Engineering here: http://www.jwesteng.com/porsche/914/linkage_914.htm I presume they're a pretty reputable company to order from? Lastly, the front shift rod boot is in decent shape and is correct to the 73-76 style linkage but doesn't match up at the firewall... I presume this is because 70-72 used a different firewall shift rod boot and because of that I'm betting there's probably no early/late hybrid boot like there is firewall bushing to seal it 100%? I didn't find one scouring the internet but correct me if I'm wrong. And one more thing.... if I'm already ordering the bushings should I go order a set of the cone screws if my current set appears to be in good condition or skip them and re-use my originals? Also I should note by good condition, I mean the originals are still there... is there any reason to remove and inspect them for wear on the coned/pointed side? Thanks again for everyone's help! |
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