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Tom |
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None ![]() |
After putting new bushings in the trans bracket for the shifter rod, I still had a lot of slop. Taking it apart and measuring found the following. New Bushings are 0.600 inside dia and 0.815 outside dia. My bracket hole for the bushing is 0.830 and my rod is 0.588. Made another bushing for the rod that is slightly larger. Will get back later to let all know how it turns out.
Also made a couple of bushings for the yoke at the fire wall. Press fit and hone to fit pin. This tightened up that area very well. I used a white delrin material to make the bushings out of as this material is supposed to be good for this type of application. ![]() ![]() ![]() Later, Tom |
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Tom |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None ![]() |
Nomad,
Yes, I would replace the cone screws also. You don't want things to come loose at the wrong time. I was pretty surprised to see this thread pop back up. I'm glad it had been some help to some members. Put in the replacement bushings and see how they work out and then see where you need to modify anything. I have a J-west boot for the rear console also. works great. You really need to keep the dirt and dust away ffrom the bushings there or risk excessive wear. Tom |
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