SBC V8 Water Pump Failure, 3 Styles of Pumps Tested BYPASS THERMOSTAT UPDATE Options

[nick mironov]

My Renegade water pump failed yesterday. The pump impeller is stamped steel and the blades all just folded over or sheared off. I understand that the cast impellers are much stronger, but that not all manufacturer's cast models will fit into the Renegade housing. Anybody have experience with cast impeller pumps that will fit into the Renegade housing?

Since there is no bypass in the Renegade system, Renegade instructions are to limit the motor RPM to 3,000, or less, untill the thermostat opens. I have observed this, but the pump still failed after 5,500 miles. Renegade now makes a bypass kit, which I going to try, but I would still like to get a more durable pump.

Nick

[nick mironov]

This is the Test Setup.

Although the pump housing has two outlets, for convenience, I decided to use one for the pressure gauge and use the other for the output flow. If one were to test both outlets, I would not expect double the flow – maybe only 30% more. That would correspond well to the advertised pump rating of about 40 gpm at 4,000 RPM that I have seen.



The motive force for spinning the pumps during testing was a 2,500 RPM hand-drill attached to the protruding bolt on the blue-colored channel that you see in the picture. Unfortunately, the drill could not achieve the full 2,500 RPM under load, so I had to settle for whatever it could do. As a result I had to calculate the resulting water pressures at higher RPMs. The calculated results (list image) do seem to correspond to real conditions, indicating very high pressures at dead head conditions - thermostat is closed during cold engine conditions and not having a bypass. Note that a nearly closed thermostat could be experienced under cruise conditions in very mild weather resulting in the same high pressure effect. Based on my experience and many other posts that I have read about failed pump impellers, the high pressure conditions do happen and that’s what results in catastrophic pump failures.

The objective of this testing is to find a pump impeller that is more durable (able to withstand dead head pressures) and to possibly produce less pressure without sacrificing much water flow. Note that the Chrysler big block pumps were used on engines running at about 4,000 rpm, and in my case, my 283 SBC can run to over 6,000 rpm.

[nick mironov]

This is the Lineup of the Tested Impellers.

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The first one is my failed impeller. I decided to test it just for yucks. It is missing one blade and I un-bent the others so it would at least spin without hitting anything in the housing. It actually worked surprisingly well (except for the violent out-of-balance vibration).

The second one is a brand new exact replacement stamped metal impeller with a 4.3” diameter (same as the damaged one).

The third one is a cast iron impeller with a 3.66” diameter and 6 blades. SLITS provided this rebuilt one to me for testing.

The fourth one is also cast iron impeller with a 4.365” diameter and 10 blades. SLITS also provided this rebuilt one to me for testing. Note that the 4.365” diameter is a tight fit into the 4.393: diameter housing.

[nick mironov]

Failed Stamped Impeller.

The impeller failed during simple city driving. I got about 5,000 miles out of it and never ran it about 3,000 RPM until the engine water temperature was above the thermostat 180 def F setting (per Renegade recommendations). The impeller failed anyway. I suspect that the blades bent a long time ago and finally one broke off, jamming the pump and leaving me stranded (not too far from home).