shifter bushings, larger bushings Options

[Tom]

After putting new bushings in the trans bracket for the shifter rod, I still had a lot of slop. Taking it apart and measuring found the following. New Bushings are 0.600 inside dia and 0.815 outside dia. My bracket hole for the bushing is 0.830 and my rod is 0.588. Made another bushing for the rod that is slightly larger. Will get back later to let all know how it turns out.
Also made a couple of bushings for the yoke at the fire wall. Press fit and hone to fit pin. This tightened up that area very well. I used a white delrin material to make the bushings out of as this material is supposed to be good for this type of application.







Later,
Tom

[Nürburg Nomad]

Okay well everything arrived in short order and I've got it all in hand!

The rear plastic cover came off with just a bit of PB Blaster penetrating oil which immediately loosened up all the gunk and aluminum oxidation securing it in place. Rear cone screw is removed but now I can't seem to get the dowel pin out?!?

As I lay underneath my 914 now typing this via phone; I attempted the trick noted elsewhere here to have someone quickly move the shifter forward into 2nd while holding the rear ball cup segment in place. Unfortunately since the bushings at the other dowel pin further up are 100% gone it applies no substantial force and would be more likely to damage the aluminum piece...

Unrelated but I also just noticed two segments of fuel line in bad need to replacment... And yes my neighbors are used to seeing me work on cars at this hour; they're usually quite a bit larger though and less German than the 914 over me at the moment.

So perhaps there's a tool or trick to removing the 2 dowel pins that I've missed? Time to get this 914 back on the road! : ) Thanks everyone!

[Dave_Darling]

So perhaps there's a tool or trick to removing the 2 dowel pins that I've missed?

What dowel pins? With a side-shifter, you just remove the cone screw and wiggle the shift rod head off of the rear shift rod. Then you can slide the rod out of the side shifter console to replace the castellated bushing, and pull the shift rod head off of the gear selector to replace the cup bushing. No dowel pin removal needed.

--DD

[Nürburg Nomad]

So perhaps there's a tool or trick to removing the 2 dowel pins that I've missed?

What dowel pins? With a side-shifter, you just remove the cone screw and wiggle the shift rod head off of the rear shift rod. Then you can slide the rod out of the side shifter console to replace the castellated bushing, and pull the shift rod head off of the gear selector to replace the cup bushing. No dowel pin removal needed.

--DD

Heh correct... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I wasn't sure what I was dealing with until I totally got under there and tore everything apart. Clearly all this linkage hadn't been dismantled in quite some time so it took quite a bit more persuasion than a wiggle... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) but it really wasn't that bad!

But yes, thanks again for everyones advice, haven't had much time to work on the ole' 914 but the plan is to complete it today.

The new black bushings from Pelican at the aluminum yoke piece right behind the firewall fit exceptionally well and took a bit of ingenuity to press them in myself so thats now reassembled to the rear shifter linkage bar. I know this is the primary culprit as these bushings were missing entirely by the time I removed the boot concealing it; so the front rod & shifter would be fully in the Rev/1st or 4th/5th while it would only tilt the rear linkage bar a fraction of what it should have been.

The new Pelican rear rod bushing located where the black plastic access cover is, is better than the one I just took out but probably still .10" of slop so I could see a measurable advantage using Delrin as pictured in the first post.

The new Pelican cup bushing appears to be Grade A also; just a matter of forcing it on and surpasing the pressure of the air pocket created in there!

Otherwise it looks like the Pelican firewall bushing should fit snugly assuming I can ever get it installed! Tried boiling it in water to the point where air bubbles were rising from it within the Pyrex measuring cup and I swore it was going to melt but even then no luck since there's soo little room to swing a dead blow mallet or hammer under there, I just had a super hot bushing that didn't seem any more pliable!?

Soooo any surefire suggestions for getting the firewall bushing in would be handy; perhaps a tool I can craft to apply equal pressure to either side of the bushing before wailing on it with a hammer? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Drums66]

Soooo any surefire suggestions for getting the firewall bushing in would be handy; perhaps a tool I can craft to apply equal pressure to either side of the bushing before wailing on it with a hammer? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Last time I did that 1,it slipped right in!.....or let a hot breath buddie........b (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Nürburg Nomad]

Soooo any surefire suggestions for getting the firewall bushing in would be handy; perhaps a tool I can craft to apply equal pressure to either side of the bushing before wailing on it with a hammer? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Last time I did that 1,it slipped right in!.....or let a hot breath buddie........b (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Ha well the boiling didn't work but a huge bolt slid through a thick fender washer and then held on the other side with vice grips by myself while a buddy wailed on it with a hammer from the other side did it; and MAN now that it's installed there is ZERO play up, down, front, back or any other direction inbetween.

Everything else went smoothly as planned and the expensive JWest rear boot reproduction piece fits and functions as it should as well!

Currently it feels as if I definitely have 4 of the gears if not all 6 when just moving the shifter around but I don't intend to drive it until I revamp the fuel system that I realized the fuel hoses were on the brink of splitting open!

Although most importantly I didn't let the bushings beat me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Now... to start a fuel system thread to resolve those issues; after which I've gotta sort out why none of the auxilary gauges work! Back to work... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)