Replaced my ignition switch (again). Will it solve my start problem?, PLUS I awoke the seat buzzer! Options

[orthobiz]

When I got my 74 1.8 three years ago, it had a new aftermarket ignition switch that went bad immediately. I replaced it with another aftermarket switch but last summer it occasionally would not start, hot or cold. Most recently, I jiggled the key in order to get it to start so I assumed it was the switch again.

So today I replaced the switch with an OEM (Switch Pics in the Parts Vault). But the old switch looked fine. Couldn't detect any cracks, maybe there's internal damage? I had once read about some subtle differences in the switches but could not detect any. Anyone know if the switch can fail and look good externally? This is the fourth switch in the car, including the original, so I'm getting suspicious something else might be wrong.

So I put it together and it starts, but the seat buzzer began to go wild whenever I turned the switch. I went back into the garage later and it stopped! Brad Mayeur had worked on it before I got it and disabled it for me.

Any thoughts appreciated. I want the car more reliable; I've only been able to take short jaunts where I don't have to stop!

Paul

[Tom]

If the switch was OK, then the only other thing you were "disturbing" when replacing the switch previously was the connector. Could be a bad crimp inside the connector, that's why I asked before. So, if you have replaced the switch and still have the problem, ie; it works only after wiggling, then the only thing left is the connector. One of the wire's crimps may be going bad.
Tom

[orthobiz]

If the switch was OK, then the only other thing you were "disturbing" when replacing the switch previously was the connector. Could be a bad crimp inside the connector, that's why I asked before. So, if you have replaced the switch and still have the problem, ie; it works only after wiggling, then the only thing left is the connector. One of the wire's crimps may be going bad.
Tom

Although, after discussing it with Brad Mayeur today from 914ltd, he said some of the higher mileage vehicles have housings attached to the starter switch that don't allow for the full clockwise rotation necessary for contact in the switch itself. He said the 75/76 models (not mine) were notorious for this. My car has 24000 miles on it.

He is sending me a used whatever-you-call-the-thing-the-key-fits-into. I'll keep this thread posted on my progress.

The connector crimp is interesting; since there are seven prongs for seven holes (hey, wasn't there an old musical with a name like that?) it would be nice to know which crimp is the culprit.

Meanwhile, like Gimp pointed out, I may just have the non-OEM starter switch problem. I have an OEM switch in there right now, maybe I have no further cause for concern!

Paul