cooling issues..., fine when driving, spikes when stopped. |
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cooling issues..., fine when driving, spikes when stopped. |
malaga_red75 |
Aug 6 2010, 05:52 PM
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#1
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'74 2.5L N/A Subie Group: Members Posts: 454 Joined: 5-March 06 From: Menlo Park, CA Member No.: 5,674 Region Association: None |
subaru JDM EJ25 DOHC
So, got my conversion finally road worthy and have noticed that while I am driving around, the car stays at around 200 F. when i stop, or let it idle in my garage... the temp slowly climbs and doesnt stop (i shut it off around 230 F). I am assuming this is an issue with my fans. I am running a front mounted radiator, using 2 push-style fans. A few things that i think may be wrong... -There is no shroud around the fans... just the shroud that seals the radiator to the front (since they are push fans, they are mounted on the front side of the radiator, in between the radiator and the nose of the car) - there is about a 1 1/2" gap between the fans and the radiator (this was just the way that ended up working for mounting the fans) anyways, i am pretty sure that the cooling system is working (no kinked lines, thermostat working, fans do turn on) as indicated by driving and the temp staying cool, there is just something not working when i stop moving. let me know what you guys think. -Peter |
malaga_red75 |
Aug 10 2010, 10:37 PM
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#2
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'74 2.5L N/A Subie Group: Members Posts: 454 Joined: 5-March 06 From: Menlo Park, CA Member No.: 5,674 Region Association: None |
So, I re-did the cooling system, bringing the fans to the other side and pulling the air. While I was doing this I also pulled the engine/tranny and fixed my tranny leak (a input shaft seal leak). I just finished putting the engine back in and connecting all the lines.
So, tomorrow I will be filling the system back up with coolant (and water wetter, thanks barberdave). Can anyone give me a little more detail of how to get all the air out of the system. -what did you use as a vacuum? -where did you pull the air out? I am using a pressurized burp tank system, i.e. there is no cap on the radiator. the pressurized cap is on the burp tank. The burp tank has an air bleed nipple, as well as the radiator. there is also a nipple on the crossover pipe, which I think might be the highest point in the system. Thanks!!! sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, couldn't find my camera. peter Attached thumbnail(s) |
Mike Bellis |
Aug 10 2010, 11:00 PM
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#3
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,346 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
So, I re-did the cooling system, bringing the fans to the other side and pulling the air. While I was doing this I also pulled the engine/tranny and fixed my tranny leak (a input shaft seal leak). I just finished putting the engine back in and connecting all the lines. So, tomorrow I will be filling the system back up with coolant (and water wetter, thanks barberdave). Can anyone give me a little more detail of how to get all the air out of the system. -what did you use as a vacuum? -where did you pull the air out? I am using a pressurized burp tank system, i.e. there is no cap on the radiator. the pressurized cap is on the burp tank. The burp tank has an air bleed nipple, as well as the radiator. there is also a nipple on the crossover pipe, which I think might be the highest point in the system. Thanks!!! sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, couldn't find my camera. peter Looking at your picture, You may also want to consider making your fender outlet holes bigger. Your outlet surface area should be much larger than the inlet. This will help create a nagative pressure zone in the fender well. This will draw more air through the radiator. |
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