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ripper911 |
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corde pulsum tangite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,920 Joined: 25-April 10 From: Powder Springs, GA Member No.: 11,654 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Well, we got everything changed and back together.
I crank the car up and it just grinds when trying to shift. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Heres what I know... we didn't remove the flywheel/crankshaft seal so the shims were not messed with I used the rebuilt flywheel (although it looked awefully clean) so I thought we might have to do the shims but didn't think we would be able to do it with what we had available.. I've adjusted the cable at the release fork as much as it can, the pedal feels very tight, and the end of the fork hits the transmision case. I've read about shimming the ball in the bell housing of the tranny, but how? is that what we should do next, or go in and get the shims behind the flywheel in spec? we shifted the transmission while trying to get it back on the engine, whould that have thrown something off? not sure what to do next? |
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brant |
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,642 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I only read through this once, so forgive me if I am mistaken.
but I understood that your old flywheel was blue/scored, so you put the used flywheel on. However, you also state that you didn't want to have to reset the endplay and left the crank seal alone. You still have to reset the endplay any time you change the flywheel. Even if you don't touch the crank seal you still have to reset your endplay. It won't be the reason for your clutch issues, but it will break your crank or wear out your motor in the next few thousand miles if the crank is bouncing forward/back due to excessive end play If I missed something in the quick read through I apologize, it just seemed that there was a misunderstanding about end play. |
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