2.7L, So why is 2.7L the motor to avoid? Options

[qa1142]

If someone is going to start looking for a 6 to build what do you want and what do you want to avoid?

2.2

2.4

2.7

3.0

3.2

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[Cap'n Krusty]

2.7s pull studs from the soft metal mag cases. Porsche has found the Dilavar studs weren't the answer to the problem, and they've gone back to steel studs. Case savers are a requirement. 3.0 engines break studs, often right down at the deck. An EDM is required to fix this, along with case savers. My guy gets 50 bucks a hole. We just did an SC engine with EIGHT broken studs.
Pressure fed tensioners are OK, but the conversion is major dollars, bucks that could be better spent elsewhere. They CAN fail. I've seen it. A good rebuild of the late SC tensioners and the addition of chain guards sets you back 50-60 bucks in parts and they last for ages.
2.7 engines need a well designed front oil cooler setup. Built 2.4s might, too.
As for weight, everything that moves is the same weight between a 2.7 and a 3.0, with the exception of the pistons. I doubt they rev any more freely.
A 5 blade fan works fine if you have the correct fan ring and drive pulleys. The urban legends regarding the subject are like most urban legends ..............

That said, if I were building a performance motor for my car, I'd build a 2.5 based on a 2.0 S crank and an aluminum case, with ported big valve heads. The machinists I use say they can get me right about 200 HP from a street drivable 2.2, so a short stroke 2.5 should be a revvin'n fool, and have even better HP.

The Cap'n