Type 1 CV Joints, Using Type 1 CV Joints |
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Type 1 CV Joints, Using Type 1 CV Joints |
LotusJoe |
Oct 26 2010, 03:46 PM
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#1
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Europa Twink Driver Group: Members Posts: 406 Joined: 30-November 09 From: Southern California Member No.: 11,085 Region Association: Southern California |
Has anyone used type one CV joints? They are dimensionally the same. The type one joint does not use the gasket like the original joint. Also all the holes are the same size and will not accommodate the 10 mm roll pin.
I made some pins that fit the stub axle and transmission flange while fitting the hole in the type 1 CV joint. That way no modification is required to either component. I used 1211 sealant in place of the gasket. Anyone else done this? |
john rogers |
Oct 26 2010, 10:03 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,525 Joined: 4-March 03 From: Chula Vista CA Member No.: 391 |
I used Eric's CV joints on my vintage race car and the right side would generally last about 2 years and then the inner CV joint would fail. I ran a GT limited slip and generally the right side is still the heaviest loaded side. I ran 4 bolt Centerline wheels since they were about the lightest made and figured that the CV joints would last well but be the weak link as that is easy to change and better than a R&P or other trans problem you might get. I would make up a spare axle when I broke one so there was always an extra one with the trailer.
Eric's pins are steel as they take the rotational load and the bolts clamping force will not prevent the two halves from moving as the tightening torque is not very high. I would suggest you use steel or commercial roll pins. |
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