Type 1 CV Joints, Using Type 1 CV Joints |
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Type 1 CV Joints, Using Type 1 CV Joints |
LotusJoe |
Oct 26 2010, 03:46 PM
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#1
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Europa Twink Driver Group: Members Posts: 406 Joined: 30-November 09 From: Southern California Member No.: 11,085 Region Association: Southern California |
Has anyone used type one CV joints? They are dimensionally the same. The type one joint does not use the gasket like the original joint. Also all the holes are the same size and will not accommodate the 10 mm roll pin.
I made some pins that fit the stub axle and transmission flange while fitting the hole in the type 1 CV joint. That way no modification is required to either component. I used 1211 sealant in place of the gasket. Anyone else done this? |
Eric_Shea |
Oct 27 2010, 08:35 PM
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#2
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,289 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
QUOTE Now I'm wondering if my old stock CV joints were something other than type 4 No... I do believe Robert is wrong. McMark has some pictures around here somewhere that show the exact measurments and they are... the same (with the exception of the step you noted). I've measured them as well. The 914 CV is identical. I will tell you this, get GNK/Loebro CV's "ONLY". There are less expensive Meyle T1 CV joints on the market and their cage is not identical. It allows the CV to hyper-extend. If you are turning when your CV hyper-extends you will split this cage (turning out of an agressive parking lot apron while accelerating on to the road... very common). Final note: I would not use the stainless steel pins. While they are a great idea, I think they might be more brittle (sigma phase embrittlement depending on the type used). I'd bet the factory steel roll pins are much stronger. I'd recommend buying the right bit and bore out the T1 hole to use the factory roll pin. |
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