Type 1 CV Joints, Using Type 1 CV Joints Options

[LotusJoe]

Has anyone used type one CV joints? They are dimensionally the same. The type one joint does not use the gasket like the original joint. Also all the holes are the same size and will not accommodate the 10 mm roll pin.



I made some pins that fit the stub axle and transmission flange while fitting the hole in the type 1 CV joint. That way no modification is required to either component.


I used 1211 sealant in place of the gasket.



Anyone else done this?

[Elliot Cannon]

Are these CV's better? Stronger? Cheaper? What, if any is the advantage?
Cheers, Elliot

[Rotary'14]

Are these CV's better? Stronger? Cheaper? What, if any is the advantage?
Cheers, Elliot

Type 1 CVs are really easy to find and can be found for low cost. The only draw back is their maximum working angle is only 17 degrees compared to 22 degrees in our original 914 CV. This is due to the smaller balls and cage in the T1 CV. Empi (yeah I know they don't have the best reputation) makes an "off road race Type 2 CV" that has a working angle of 25 degrees and has a chromoly ball cage and bigger balls, they take more torque. You know bigger balls is better. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I've read good things about the empi race CV on some other forums when I was doing some research. And T2 CVs will interchange with T1 CVs. Some good info below,,
http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_to/C..._joints_101.htm

-Robert

[LotusJoe]

Are these CV's better? Stronger? Cheaper? What, if any is the advantage?
Cheers, Elliot

Type 1 CVs are really easy to find and can be found for low cost. The only draw back is their maximum working angle is only 17 degrees compared to 22 degrees in our original 914 CV. This is due to the smaller balls and cage in the T1 CV. Empi (yeah I know they don't have the best reputation) makes an "off road race Type 2 CV" that has a working angle of 25 degrees and has a chromoly ball cage and bigger balls, they take more torque. You know bigger balls is better. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I've read good things about the empi race CV on some other forums when I was doing some research. And T2 CVs will interchange with T1 CVs. Some good info below,,
http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_to/C..._joints_101.htm

-Robert

Robert, I'm a bit confused. I just read the "CV Joints 101". The new type 1 CVs I got are dimensionally the same size as the original ones that came on my 914 (32.14 X 94). The only difference is the step on the out board side of the joint. If I read this correctly, the type 4 are 6mm bigger. Now I'm wondering if my old stock CV joints were something other than type 4. Although the article does not reference the 914, I'm assuming that the 914 uses type 4.

[Rotary'14]

Are these CV's better? Stronger? Cheaper? What, if any is the advantage?
Cheers, Elliot

Type 1 CVs are really easy to find and can be found for low cost. The only draw back is their maximum working angle is only 17 degrees compared to 22 degrees in our original 914 CV. This is due to the smaller balls and cage in the T1 CV. Empi (yeah I know they don't have the best reputation) makes an "off road race Type 2 CV" that has a working angle of 25 degrees and has a chromoly ball cage and bigger balls, they take more torque. You know bigger balls is better. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I've read good things about the empi race CV on some other forums when I was doing some research. And T2 CVs will interchange with T1 CVs. Some good info below,,
http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_to/C..._joints_101.htm

-Robert

Robert, I'm a bit confused. I just read the "CV Joints 101". The new type 1 CVs I got are dimensionally the same size as the original ones that came on my 914 (32.14 X 94). The only difference is the step on the out board side of the joint. If I read this correctly, the type 4 are 6mm bigger. Now I'm wondering if my old stock CV joints were something other than type 4. Although the article does not reference the 914, I'm assuming that the 914 uses type 4.

Even though our engines are type 4,, I NEVER said that those were the CVs we had in our car.(I assumed the maximum angle of a 914 CV is like that of a T4) 914 CVs are dimensionally the same as the T1 mentioned in the 101 site. 914 CVs are some bastard creation that are NLA. I mentioned that the T2 CVs were considered a "drop in" upgrade to the T1 CVs which the good folks here have been modifying to work for us. Just have to check the spacing of the T2 CV mounting holes to make sure they are the same as T1.
As far as "sigma phase embrittlement" concerns, don't use SS for the pins,, the harder the metal the easier it is to snap.



http://www.jimscustomvw.com/emofty2cjowc.html

-Robert

[LotusJoe]

[/quote]
Even though our engines are type 4,, I NEVER said that those were the CVs we had in our car.(I assumed the maximum angle of a 914 CV is like that of a T4) 914 CVs are dimensionally the same as the T1 mentioned in the 101 site. 914 CVs are some bastard creation that are NLA. I mentioned that the T2 CVs were considered a "drop in" upgrade to the T1 CVs which the good folks here have been modifying to work for us. Just have to check the spacing of the T2 CV mounting holes to make sure they are the same as T1.
As far as "sigma phase embrittlement" concerns, don't use SS for the pins,, the harder the metal the easier it is to snap.

-Robert
[/quote]
Robert, Please don't misunderstand, I didn't mean to imply that you indicated T4 Cv joints go with T4 engines. That was an assumption I made. I wasn't even aware that there so many different joints. The site you listed is very helpful, but for me was confusing. My joints are going on a mildly tune restoration so I'm not very concerned about over stressing the Type 1 joints.

Thanks for your help and input.
Joe