*SOLD* 73 w/steel flares $1,800 OBO before snowfall..., Car is in Buffalo but *may* be willing to tow it to Chicagoland area Options

[ptravnic]

Updating the old post and adding more pics:

$1,900 $1,800 Or Best Offer before snowfall

Selling because the time for me to do this project has passed. I purchased the car from a fellow club member (Ray Mital, an admin @ 914club.com) in 2007. i now live in Chicago and the car is located in Buffalo, NY near my father's place. Given the right circumstances, I may be willing to transport it to the Chicagoland area.


1973 VIN 4732908733 with a clean title:

Originally green, with lap welded after market (Auto Atlanta) steel flares. Installation of the flares along with replacement of front right quarter panel, rear deck lid, and rear trunk panel (the part that holds the tail lenses) was done by the professionals @ Amherst Collision in Williamsville, NY.

The chassis of the car is structurally sound and requires no major straightening, rail repair, etc. One of the pics shows a bit of rusty metal in the hell hole area but its deceiving since its dirty w/leaves around it. There is some surface rust to be repaired on the upper side of the hell hole but I've hammered around & jabbed around w/a screw driver and the "usual" area is solid. The longs are intact and strong - I've jabbed at them with a screwdriver and hit them w/a hammer & they're solid. There's a little body work on the left rear flare that just never got smoothed out (the other 3 were smoothed out). The trunk needs to have the rear trunk area finished - mainly attaching the rear section that they installed to the trunk floor. The area below the battery tray is, according to the shop, a couple hour fix. I'd guess all this is about $300 worth of work based on what has been charged/done so far. I could have the shop finish up the work but once I decided to sell the car I told them to stop accruing bills...

Stuff missing from making it a complete car - not a ton but its not going to be finished in a weekend either. The interior is out but could be put back in fairly easily - the engine (1.7L) & tranny (tail shifter) are out of the car right now, and a few other pieces are missing. With respect to moldings - it is mostly there, either in the car or in the garage although some things have been mixed up over the past couple years so its tough to separate this project from others.

Here are a few Q/A's from prior disucussions w/a potential buyer who has taken a look at the car:

Q:What happened to the jack posts?
A: Not sure. I can only guess that they were removed by a previous owner.


Q:Are you intending to have the jackposts reinstalled?
A: No - I've never wanted to use the original jack posts for jacking it up but if you are interested in a new set I'll throw in a (new) set that came with new side rails from another project. I think they came from restoration design (http://www.restoration-design.com).

Q: The door sill on the right side has an area of significant rust forming.
A: I'm guessing that this is a result of it sitting outside and the door sill area not covered w/primer or paint. Depending on the condition, it could only require taking it down to bare metal and covering it with primer or a POR-15 type paint. My dad mentioned this as one of the areas that should be repaired before it leaves the body shop (similar to the rear trunk floor and engine bay area near the battery tray) - but this depends on who is buying it and if they have any experience in light metal work or a desire to do it him/herself.

Q: The engine lid does not close as panels are misaligned, I'm guessing, or is this a result of accident damage?
A: I don't recall the engine lid being damaged - only the rear trunk lid (which was replaced). It probably doesn't close because it isn't tightened down & properly adjusted where the lid mounts to the firewall. The engine lid was removed so that the engine bay would be easier to get to - I'm pretty sure that I didn't put it back on with any intention of it being a final fit since there are so many adjustments to make before getting the final fit & lines to line up - new seals will make a difference and just adding new paint to the edges will alter the spacing quite a bit.


Q: The rear trunk panel sits below the quarter panel on the right side. Is it damaged or misaligned?
A: The metal on metal fit should be a bit off. This will be the case since the trunk seals are not attached and due to the absence of the rubber stops that attach to the trunk lid. The rubber stops are what adjusts the lid up or down on each of the corners near the lights to make a tighter fit when the latch locks things in place. There is also an adjustment where the rear deck lid bolts onto the hinges - it can move back and forth and side to side slightly - it should only get its final fitting just before paint (the deck lid should be painted while off the car).


Much more than $1,900 $1,800 has been spent on this car (bought it for $800, steel flares were $800, extra body panels were another few hundred $, and the body shop bills are somewhere north of $1,500)
pm me with questions.

Bottom line is that this is a good project car for someone who lusts after a steel flared 914. I'm trying to be as transparent as possible with this so please let me know if there's more you'd like to know.

pm me
-Pete

[ptravnic]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) for price drop