Palindrome 914 Build Thread, now on the chassis jig |
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Palindrome 914 Build Thread, now on the chassis jig |
nathansnathan |
Dec 3 2010, 05:22 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,052 Joined: 31-May 10 From: Laguna Beach, CA Member No.: 11,782 Region Association: None |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291418830.1.jpg)
I changed the title of the thread, so it's incognito now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) - Sort of to do with the midengined-ness, my username, and of course the 420 914 thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) The car was very original, but quite trashed when I bought it. It's a 49 state car, purchased in Colorado judging by the sticker that was on the back opposite the badge, Bob Hagestad Dealerhip. I don't have a picture of that unfortunately... Both bumpers had 1975 UCLA parking permit stickers. It is an appearance group car, tan square weave, late enough to get 2 real tan basket weave seats. Original adriatic blue paint, no repaints. The snowplow early rear valence. It has the original red heater lever pull which I don't see very much. Everything was there without having been hacked/modified (besides the door panels). Unmodified but fairly trashed. Chassis # 174932 -Meaning the chassis was built the 17th week of the year 1972 (I think it is the 17th week with a Monday the way they count it), the 4th day of that week, Thursday April 27th, 1972. -I thought it was 4/20 but I must concede it was probably a week later, the chassis production. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-179-1307065668.jpg) It is odd, though, the dash doesn't match. 1729556 vs 1749532 which is on the Karmann plate and the trunk. It would be from just 2 days earlier, but then I was thinking, if it was from another car, it could theoretically be from a 73 or a 74 car, too. It seems like it is original, though, as peple always bodge everything and it was fairly unmolested, the wiring, and hardware of the dash. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291418830.2.jpg) The engine number... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1296535790.12.jpg) |
nathansnathan |
Dec 3 2010, 05:40 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,052 Joined: 31-May 10 From: Laguna Beach, CA Member No.: 11,782 Region Association: None |
Unbelievable how much undercoat was used at the factory on these cars. My bus isn't built like that, thank god! What where they thinking? -probably about sound dampening. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)
I read that the cars delivered to Porsche for completion as 6's, the sealer was applied a lot less liberally and by hand. I'm planning on using a brush on epoxy seam sealer more like a 6. Forget this gobs of bumpy white rubbery crap. With it being softer than the paint on top of it, there's no wonder there are so many problems. The slightest penetration, the tiniest breach in the paint shell, sometimes unnoticeable on the surface even, would create a sort of spider of rust radiating out from it underneath. I'm scraping it ALL off, me my heat gun and my big dull screwdriver (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) I don't have a pic of what the rear trunk originally looked like, a bit of surface rust at the back. Here's a pic of it after the initial scraping (quite conservative compared to stage 2 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) ) The trunk did not come with this pristine pair of ssi heater boxes, unfortunately, I had to put them in there. :-) I don't seem to have a more relevant picture of pre stage 2 for some reason. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419587.1.jpg) -They're hard not to look at aren't they? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif) This took me awhile (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419588.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419589.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419590.4.jpg) The thick-ass tar on the floor of the interior may have taken longer even. I got a few blisters getting that shite out. Here's before: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419591.5.jpg) and after (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419594.6.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419597.7.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419598.8.jpg) That's the weapon of choice right there, Made in Taiwan. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/post-2-1117899824.gif) It is full-tang though. It got so intense, the scrapin' scrapin' scrapin' that the tang started to slide in the handle, pushing the impact plate out the back of it periodically. -Still the weapon of choice though, the tip has been through so much scraping (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419598.9.jpg) it'll take of undercoat without (barely) damaging the paint beneath. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419600.10.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419601.11.jpg) Some paint thinner will make it look pristine under there. I can't wait to take off the exhaust heat shield. Next step, brace the doors.... |
roadster fan |
Dec 4 2010, 03:26 PM
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#3
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Project Frankenstein !!!!!!!! Group: Members Posts: 1,009 Joined: 24-November 05 From: Aptos, CA Member No.: 5,184 Region Association: Northern California |
Please put that concrete block on the floor oriented the way it would be installed in wall with a 2x8 on top of it, or better yet get rid of it all together. Any imperfection in that block, and/or the orientation of it as pictured, and down comes car... Keep up the good work, it is gonna be fun to watch the progress (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Jim |
nathansnathan |
Dec 5 2010, 05:19 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,052 Joined: 31-May 10 From: Laguna Beach, CA Member No.: 11,782 Region Association: None |
Please put that concrete block on the floor oriented the way it would be installed in wall with a 2x8 on top of it, or better yet get rid of it all together. Any imperfection in that block, and/or the orientation of it as pictured, and down comes car... Keep up the good work, it is gonna be fun to watch the progress (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Jim I've said this same thing to a guy an the bus furum at the samba, and I agree that having superfluous jack stands are not so good an idea. -I wouldn't ever think of supporting the car back there btw; those are there in prep for what's next. The car is held up thusly: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291591184.1.jpg) and then I've got trailer levelers to hold up the trunk only. I wouldn't trust these to hold the car up even though they say they are rated for it. Actually the back end I can probably lift up in it's entirety with my bare hands, it is that light. The cinder blocks with the trailer levellers are to keep the trunk from sagging when I take off the rear fender(s). -I don't have a jig; I think it'as mostly only going to be able to go together 1 way. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291591557.1.jpg) Anyway, I had them snugged up back there, then after I removed the fender the trunk ended up lifting up actually instead of drooping down. I've tensioned them up to that for now, as I've got more of the long to take out. Anyway, thanks for the concern, I think it should be alright as long as the main stands are good. |
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