Wiring harness, Removal |
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Wiring harness, Removal |
cwpeden |
Jan 24 2011, 02:08 AM
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#1
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Great White North, huh? Group: Members Posts: 916 Joined: 20-August 06 From: Victoria BC Member No.: 6,693 Region Association: Canada |
Hey everyone,
I'm in the final stages of preping my project tub for blast and have come to a pothole in the road. Taking out the wiring harness. I have got everything from the front in the passenger comp. and the rest at the aft side firewall. Who has done it? Do I go from inside out or outside in? Conrad |
JeffBowlsby |
Jan 24 2011, 07:04 PM
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#2
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914 Wiring Harnesses Group: Members Posts: 8,781 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None |
I'll suggest a couple of revisions to the chassis wiring harness removal/installation thread to make things easier.
It is easiest and best to take apart or remove a couple of the larger connector housings to ease the process and avoid damage to either the car, the wires, wire terminals or the connector housings, especially at the chassis holes where the harness passes through. Reinstallation is a 'snap'. 1. Don’t cut anything, there is never a need to cut wiring just for removal or reinstallation Connectors with housings easily disassemble. Make a diagram for where specific wires go in the housing before disassembling connector housings, for later use during reassembly. See diagram below to access the wire terminal release tangs. 2. Remove the plastic housings from the headlight branches. 3. Remove the cover and base from the 14-pin connector housing. 4. Remove the single pole box cover at the oil temp wire near the battery on the 1973-76 cars. 5. Avoid putting stress or severely bending any wire terminal or portion of the harness. Avoid nicking or chafing the wire insulation or casing by liberal use of a lubricant. Applying a lubricant like glycerine really helps pass it through the tight spots and can avoid damage. Glycerine is non-oily and wipes off easily, find it inexpensively at your local pharmacy and use it regularly on your other rubber trim parts to keep them fresh and prevent them from drying out. 6. The rubber double grommet conduit (‘snorkel’) is hard to deal with. Assuming it is on the harness already, leave it on the harness, do not slice it (unless is badly deteriorated). There are no new replacements at this time for this grommet. Lube this up to save it if at all possible. Attached image(s) |
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