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> Floor Pans- Rust prevention and Tunnel treatement, advice needed
highways
post Feb 24 2011, 12:30 PM
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Hi all,

I'm working on my floor pans... I have them wire brushed down to bare metal. They are in overall decent shape though there is some rust around the perimeter where they meet the longitudinals. These corners seem innaccesable to all but a small wire brush (toothbrush size). Question is:

1. Should I apply POR 15 Surface Prep, then POR 15 to get in cracks, then Seam Sealer, then maybe another coat of POR 15 over Seam Sealer?

2. Or, should i just do Seam Sealer first over bare metal, partial rust areas around the perimeter? Then follow with POR 15?

Second question... the smaller 'cross tunnel'.. the one where the front seat adjustment bracket mounts, is in poor shape. Rust inside it looks bad... some of the lower edges are gone but it's still largely inaccesable to any tools or painting. I think my options are:

A. Drill some holes in top, blow it out, and spray as much paint in there as I can and call it a day.

B. Cut it out and weld in replacement. But is this part even available? And still how do you paint the bare metal inside after you've welded a new piece in?

Any advice would be appreciated.
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proto31
post Feb 24 2011, 12:54 PM
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Just my .02 but I would not use POR 15. It's really thick and will crack over time (shrinkage and body flex (hopefully you don't have too much of that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) )) Once it cracks it works just like the old factory tar and traps water. I really like Zero Rust, it's not available at too many places but the local paint shop near me uses it when they do dock restoration at the harbor here, they paint all the metal brackets that are submerged under salt water with it, it holds up for over a year under salt water before they notice any deterioration. I've been using it for 5 years and haven't seen any of the parts I've used it on start to corrode.

For the tight areas you can't get your wire wheel into, heat works wonders- blow torch and then use a small wire brush to wipe away the melted paint etc. Use some sort of rust inhibitor, then paint with zero rust (or POR 15), then use seam sealer, no need to paint anything other than the body color paint over the seam sealer.

As for your cross bar, I believe that they are still available, if not someone can probably cut one out of a donor car for you. You can always use welding primer on the new one before you weld it in place, then just try and get paint sprayed in after it's welded. I'd be careful about trying to get tons of paint in there, seems thick paint will crack and cause problems again. Just stop getting the inside of the car wet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Dan
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SirAndy
post Feb 24 2011, 05:24 PM
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QUOTE(proto31 @ Feb 24 2011, 10:54 AM) *
I would not use POR 15

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I'm afraid it does not work as advertised ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)


Clean off the surface rust and treat the metal with MetalReady or something similar. Spray with a good primer and paint.

If the metal is weak, has holes or is rotten, cut it out and weld in replacement panels. You can use weld-through primer on those areas to give you some protection of the new metal.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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Posts in this topic
highways   Floor Pans- Rust prevention and Tunnel treatement   Feb 24 2011, 12:30 PM
proto31   Just my .02 but I would not use POR 15. It's r...   Feb 24 2011, 12:54 PM
SirAndy   I would not use POR 15 :agree: I'm afraid it...   Feb 24 2011, 05:24 PM
highways   Yeah I know about zero rust, some parts I used it ...   Feb 24 2011, 03:20 PM
MrHyde   Restoration Design makes new cross members.. loo...   Feb 24 2011, 03:44 PM
Rex-n-effect   I just used this stuff in my tunnel. Don't kno...   Feb 24 2011, 03:52 PM
highways   Thanks guys   Feb 24 2011, 04:56 PM
sixaddict   I asked a noted porsche restoration guy about usin...   Feb 24 2011, 05:29 PM
rjames   I have had good luck with Por15, but I think it...   Feb 24 2011, 10:42 PM
GTPatrick   What about using LPS-3 , a spray rust inhibitor/pr...   Feb 24 2011, 10:43 PM
pktzygt   I've had good luck reaching hard corners with ...   Feb 24 2011, 11:17 PM
9146986   My post from '05 What we do in my restoration...   Feb 25 2011, 08:56 AM
proto31   So, what did you decide on?   Mar 3 2011, 01:22 AM
charliew   I have always had good results with using epoxy pr...   Mar 3 2011, 08:33 AM
sean_v8_914   Perry, you saved me alot of typing. Your proceedu...   Mar 3 2011, 08:48 AM
scotty b   I do basically the same as Perry. Get ti to bare m...   Mar 3 2011, 08:51 AM
r_towle   I picked up a gallon of phosphoric acid which seem...   Mar 3 2011, 09:40 AM
rdauenhauer   What is the necessity of washing and rinsing the p...   Mar 3 2011, 12:06 PM
r_towle   What is the necessity of washing and rinsing the ...   Mar 3 2011, 01:02 PM
jsayre914   I used all three steps of the POR15 and I think i...   Mar 3 2011, 12:55 PM
9146986   The water stops the acid. If you are going over i...   Mar 3 2011, 01:25 PM
sean_v8_914   rust thread bump... ...and zinc rich weld thru pr...   May 12 2011, 07:29 AM
Gudhjem   Great info in this thread. I am staring to close ...   May 12 2011, 11:46 AM
FourBlades   I like to use a MAPP torch to carefully heat all t...   May 12 2011, 01:21 PM
ChrisNPDrider   heat all the nooks, crannies, and especially seam...   May 12 2011, 02:05 PM
9146986   A little flash oxidation will help some of the coa...   May 13 2011, 07:45 AM


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