Floor Pans- Rust prevention and Tunnel treatement, advice needed Options

[highways]

Hi all,

I'm working on my floor pans... I have them wire brushed down to bare metal. They are in overall decent shape though there is some rust around the perimeter where they meet the longitudinals. These corners seem innaccesable to all but a small wire brush (toothbrush size). Question is:

1. Should I apply POR 15 Surface Prep, then POR 15 to get in cracks, then Seam Sealer, then maybe another coat of POR 15 over Seam Sealer?

2. Or, should i just do Seam Sealer first over bare metal, partial rust areas around the perimeter? Then follow with POR 15?

Second question... the smaller 'cross tunnel'.. the one where the front seat adjustment bracket mounts, is in poor shape. Rust inside it looks bad... some of the lower edges are gone but it's still largely inaccesable to any tools or painting. I think my options are:

A. Drill some holes in top, blow it out, and spray as much paint in there as I can and call it a day.

B. Cut it out and weld in replacement. But is this part even available? And still how do you paint the bare metal inside after you've welded a new piece in?

Any advice would be appreciated.

[charliew]

I have always had good results with using epoxy primer over bare, clean, treated metal. Then the seam sealer then more epoxy primer. In cavities I would use a cavity coating over the epoxy primer. I have bought some of the eastwoods internal frame coating but the results are yet to be seen. Rustoleum is good industrial paint but not nice car paint in my opinion. But, it may work great in a cavity and is a lot cheaper than epoxy primer. It has fishoil in it for weatherproofing. It may not hold up to top coats other than a cheap enamel though. I use lots of it on deer hunting stuff like feeders and such and lawn furniture. Also in my opinion anytime you heat metal to where it changes color you burn it some and it seems to rust quicker.