914.043.0945 - IMSA Race Car, From roller to racer Options

[gms]

Back in April 2009 I bought a real 914/6 that was raced in IMSA in 1979 and 1980.
This car was in storage since the late 1980s, in fact I had considered buying it back in 1990. Here is the car as it sat in Mark Kinnaman's (Bartlett 914) shop after I bought it.

[stugray]

"I started to strip the passenger front wheel haus and weld all the unnecessary holes (there are many)"

I need to weld some "unnecessary" holes in mine as well.

How do you do it?
I was considering holding a copper penny or a piece of aluminum behind the hole, then plug welding it.
The weld wouldnt stick to the backup that way, but would cause a lot of porosity.
Do you have any tricks to make it flat? I dont want to just keep making the holes bigger and have a mess on my hands.

Nice job on the trailing arms.
I just did that last weekend.
I used a 1" type of pipe that is architectural for handrails.
It has a perfect OD and no seam.

I used that pipe for the rear suspension ear heim joint support as well.
I am surprised that this car does not already have them.

Stu

[gms]

"I started to strip the passenger front wheel haus and weld all the unnecessary holes (there are many)"

I need to weld some "unnecessary" holes in mine as well.

How do you do it?
I was considering holding a copper penny or a piece of aluminum behind the hole, then plug welding it.
The weld wouldnt stick to the backup that way, but would cause a lot of porosity.
Do you have any tricks to make it flat? I dont want to just keep making the holes bigger and have a mess on my hands.

I find that pulling the welder away from the work cools the weld, in other words i get a long wire pushing into the work in a circular motion. it helps to hit a couple quick tack weld and start from a thicker surface.