Floor Pans- Rust prevention and Tunnel treatement, advice needed Options

[highways]

Hi all,

I'm working on my floor pans... I have them wire brushed down to bare metal. They are in overall decent shape though there is some rust around the perimeter where they meet the longitudinals. These corners seem innaccesable to all but a small wire brush (toothbrush size). Question is:

1. Should I apply POR 15 Surface Prep, then POR 15 to get in cracks, then Seam Sealer, then maybe another coat of POR 15 over Seam Sealer?

2. Or, should i just do Seam Sealer first over bare metal, partial rust areas around the perimeter? Then follow with POR 15?

Second question... the smaller 'cross tunnel'.. the one where the front seat adjustment bracket mounts, is in poor shape. Rust inside it looks bad... some of the lower edges are gone but it's still largely inaccesable to any tools or painting. I think my options are:

A. Drill some holes in top, blow it out, and spray as much paint in there as I can and call it a day.

B. Cut it out and weld in replacement. But is this part even available? And still how do you paint the bare metal inside after you've welded a new piece in?

Any advice would be appreciated.

[Chris Pincetich]

heat all the nooks, crannies, and especially seams after applying paint prep, metal ready, and water to dry these areas out.

YUP
I have used a paint stripping heat gun to dry out the acid rinse water, to soften and remove the tar on the floorboards, and to help remove gunk and seam sealer from all nooks and crannies. Focused heat is your friend when drying out the prep liquids!

I have been doing the interior rustoration piece-meal, but this Sunday I am planning a full-on attack with Wurth Metal Ready. It was not cheap, but has both the acid and zinc in it. Then, Wurth self-etch primer, then paint (then seam sealer?).