WhO's THE BEST, rust remover/ encapsulator Options

[mrgjones]

Alright. There are a lot of products on the market that promise to remove rust and prevent it from coming back. From reading the threads it seems the opinions on this forum are as varied as the products themselves. This thread is about making a convincing argument... or a ludicrous allegation, which ever you find appropriate. Horror stories are welcome but please limit yourselves to the chemical rust abatement theme already established. For you slow starters, here is your motivation.

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[Katmanken]

When I went to get my trunk done at American Metal Cleaners (new name?), they were hauling a Ford model T out of the tank. Their process stripped everything off that thing, and you could see where the rusted out metal patches needed to go. They were very elusive as to the process, but they showed me a 4 ft by 6 ft wire basket that held a bunch of treated parts. I noticed , in addition to the support cable, a big assed braided electrical wire attached to the basket, and field lines burned into the stainless of the basket. That told me that acid wasn't involved. My bare assed trunk, doors and other parts sat for 6 or more months in high humidity, without rusting. About 10 years ago, they said a whole car was about $1k for treatment. Probably more now due to time, and the enviro-police.

Per naval jelly, it contains the same chemical as ospho in a jelly binder to hold it in place. In places like the side of a fender, the ospho will run off like water, and the naval jelly will stay put. Just make sure you read the naval jelley container directions. They reccomend washing the residue off before it dries. If you want ospho to stay in place on the side of a car, try a saturated cotton ball. It's better than nothing, but not much.

I've done electroless nickel plating on a lot of production parts, and it is one of the stages of a chrome part. It's also a bitch to get paint to stick to it.

Ken

[mrgjones]

I've done electroless nickel plating on a lot of production parts, and it is one of the stages of a chrome part. It's also a bitch to get paint to stick to it.

Ken

Since we're going all out here, why bother to paint when we can reverse the leads and just electroplate the whole thing? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Of course you're completely right about mild steels being less susceptible to the effects of hydrogen embrittlement. You can even use it on the hardened steels as long as it's treated in an industrial oven at a proper temp and time after the process. I've used a homemade setup on lots of small parts and it works great!
I've never seen a shop around my neck of the woods that does this professionally, but it seems like a great way to go. I don't think I'd trust things like motor mounts, suspension components, etc. unless they were heat treated afterwards but I'm sure a specialty shop would be able to handle all of that and give speciific info about how to care for the product.