Lower Wheelhouse Replacement Part, Is it meant to be single layer, or double? |
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Lower Wheelhouse Replacement Part, Is it meant to be single layer, or double? |
Gudhjem |
May 16 2011, 05:09 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 133 Joined: 29-March 07 From: Castro Valley, CA Member No.: 7,629 Region Association: Northern California |
I’m working on repairing the area below the Hell Hole – basically the bottom of the passenger long around and behind the jack post.
My plan is to preserve the double-wall original aspect, so I’ve been taking pains weld new metal onto the inner C-shaped long pieces before I repair the outer pieces that sit over them. TIG welding on slightly pitted 20ga is challenging, but I’m managing. I’d rather not go the single-wall replacement route that the RD/AA inner long piece for the engine compartment is designed to do (the one with the corrugated ribbing that shows after install). As part of this, I need to replace the metal around the jackpost on the inner wall. I’d like to be able to use this piece from RD: Can anyone tell me if the RD piece is meant to go inside of the outer long (like the original configuration) or if this is meant to be a single-layer piece, with nothing over it? I'm guessing it's meant to be single, since I think I see a flange on it, and the inner "C" channel pieces don't have that. I’ll have to do some pretty tough fabricating to get the jack post hole right... |
Gudhjem |
May 18 2011, 10:32 AM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 133 Joined: 29-March 07 From: Castro Valley, CA Member No.: 7,629 Region Association: Northern California |
Thanks for the reply Pete.
The reason I will probably separate the two pieces is that my outer piece appears to be in decent shape, while the inner peice has rust issues in the bottom of it and around the jack post. I'm trying to keep as much of the original metal as possible, mostly because I want to reduce the chance that I throw something out of alignment or twist the frame. I'm doing this without a jig, and that's my biggest concern. It would be easier and less work if I just cut out entire panels and replaced them with new ones, but I'm not sure I can keep the car straight if I did that. So I'm not planning to replace my part with the replacement part entirely, just cut away until I get good metal, and then cuts pieces out of the replacement part as needed. I'm happy to get both pieces though, since there probably are some parts of the outer that I will replace, like around the jack post. Per my exchange with Lucy, my understanding is the double piece is what is on its way to me. I suppose most who buy that part are replacing the entire original piece, or are at least replacing both layers where they replace it, so it makes sense you've spot welded it. I'm just trying too limit cutting out that much, at least at one time. We'll see, I may end up using more than I think. --Steve |
scotty b |
May 18 2011, 03:26 PM
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#3
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Thanks for the reply Pete. The reason I will probably separate the two pieces is that my outer piece appears to be in decent shape, while the inner peice has rust issues in the bottom of it and around the jack post. I'm trying to keep as much of the original metal as possible, mostly because I want to reduce the chance that I throw something out of alignment or twist the frame. I'm doing this without a jig, and that's my biggest concern. It would be easier and less work if I just cut out entire panels and replaced them with new ones, but I'm not sure I can keep the car straight if I did that. So I'm not planning to replace my part with the replacement part entirely, just cut away until I get good metal, and then cuts pieces out of the replacement part as needed. I'm happy to get both pieces though, since there probably are some parts of the outer that I will replace, like around the jack post. Per my exchange with Lucy, my understanding is the double piece is what is on its way to me. I suppose most who buy that part are replacing the entire original piece, or are at least replacing both layers where they replace it, so it makes sense you've spot welded it. I'm just trying too limit cutting out that much, at least at one time. We'll see, I may end up using more than I think. --Steve (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I'm a bit confused. you don't want to cut out the outer for fear of having the chassis twist so how to you propose to get to the inner panel ?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) AM I missing something ? FWIW if the innner panel is rusty and the outer is not....you just haven't found the rust on the outer. Water tends to gte inbetween the two panels and rust the outer from the inside out. My bet is once you seperate the two to do things the way you plan, you will find you need the outer piece as well If you are going at this from inside the engine bay you DEFINITELY do not want to go any further until you brace the car. Not inly at the doors, but you need to support the whoole rear ( trunk ) section of the car. Once all of the hell hole metal is removed, the whole rear 1/3 of the car is just floating and it WILL move unless you have it firmly supported and tied into the cabin. Gauranteed |
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