Palindrome 914 Build Thread, now on the chassis jig Options

[nathansnathan]

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I changed the title of the thread, so it's incognito now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

- Sort of to do with the midengined-ness, my username, and of course the 420 914 thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

The car was very original, but quite trashed when I bought it. It's a 49 state car, purchased in Colorado judging by the sticker that was on the back opposite the badge, Bob Hagestad Dealerhip. I don't have a picture of that unfortunately... Both bumpers had 1975 UCLA parking permit stickers.

It is an appearance group car, tan square weave, late enough to get 2 real tan basket weave seats. Original adriatic blue paint, no repaints. The snowplow early rear valence. It has the original red heater lever pull which I don't see very much. Everything was there without having been hacked/modified (besides the door panels). Unmodified but fairly trashed.


Chassis # 174932

-Meaning the chassis was built the 17th week of the year 1972 (I think it is the 17th week with a Monday the way they count it), the 4th day of that week, Thursday April 27th, 1972. -I thought it was 4/20 but I must concede it was probably a week later, the chassis production.
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It is odd, though, the dash doesn't match.

1729556 vs 1749532 which is on the Karmann plate and the trunk.

It would be from just 2 days earlier, but then I was thinking, if it was from another car, it could theoretically be from a 73 or a 74 car, too. It seems like it is original, though, as peple always bodge everything and it was fairly unmolested, the wiring, and hardware of the dash.



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The engine number...
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[nathansnathan]

I've finished enhancing my engine stand and thought I would share. I just need to paint it, maybe shorten some bolts, and weld up the T handle to lock the yoke.

As I'd mentioned in the previous post, I'd ordered the 4 arm yoke off the guy on the samba, but did it off ebay actually. The description talks about how it will fit in a 'standard' 2 3/8 inch hole. The swivel on my empi knockoff stand is like 1 3/4 inch.

I'd thought about how easy it would be to just buy a new stand. So I talked to a bunch of people off Craigslist who were selling mostly the harbor freight stand and it seems that 1 the hole measures 2 1/4 inch? Maybe they were measuring it wrong...

With this complication, I went back to plan A, to modify my stand, and with a half day of work on friday for Memorial day, I was able to go to the metal place.

Getting started, the old swivel would have to go, thankfully.
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I don't have pics of it specifically but I drilled off the old swivel caster that was at the front (honestly 1 supporting leg it had out front with a swivel caster! Check the pic, that had actually broken, the pin came 'unswaged' and the wheel had fallen off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) )

Probably the biggest improvement was the stability added by the wider track front.
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I decided to reinforce the joint between the vertical member and the lower part (previously just one bolt went through holding all pieces together, and then a flimsy cross brace above). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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I welded in through-tubes to reinforce both the members were the cross beam clamps down on them.
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Welded, ground and sanded down
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And the yoke swivel enhancement. I found the perfect stuff in the remnants section, DOM tubing, or 'drawn over mandrel' there is no weld crease evident on it and it is quite hard, maybe 1021 the guy was saying, just short of the hardness of chromoly, but weldable as a mild steel. The stuff is thick walled!
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The bolts coming out are made of phosphor bearing bronze and there are 3 at 120 degree intervals at the front and the back. I'll put nuts to lock them in position. These take up the ~.015" play on either side; the difference in the id of the pipe and the od of the yoke swivel is pretty good but still a little play. 'I honed' the barrel of the yoke with fine sand paper. I think I may use way lube to check rust between. There is no drooping with the engine on it, no tendency for the engine to slide forward and out as before.

It's amazingly rigid. It feels awesome to be able to trip over it and not worry about having to 'catch' the engine or to have to leave it only in the 1 position that the yoke ears aren't strained being attached at only 2 independent points. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
Before: (note the tiny flat cross bar supposed to be bolted onto those tabs, is missing in the pic)
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After:
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