76 2.0 ignition problem?, Won't restart after sitting for 15-20 minutes Options

[rd914]

Drove the car for about 30 minutes and parked for 15-20 minutes to get some food. Hopped back in and it won't start. The starter engages but no joy. Did it about 4-6 times. Had to push start the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

By the way, when I first start the car cold. It hunts excessively to almost where it dies then it settles a bit after it warms up. Still hunts but not as much. Not sure
if it is related to the issue I described above.

Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

[Tom]

The head temp sensor is working!
The problem most of the time is this: The heads are aluminum, barrels are cast iron of some type. Aluminum cools off much faster than than the core of the engine. Head temp senses a cooler condition than really is needed, sending that signal to the ECU to enrich the mixture. When in fact a richer mixture is not needed. Simple solution is to start the car with the throttle wide open, opening the throttle before turning the key to on. If you turn the key on first, depressing the throttle fully will send a signal to the ECU to give the injectors a few milliseconds extra pulse, resulting in making the problem even worse. This was learned from a thread I started several years ago because my 76 was doing the exact same thing. Paul Anders answered the thread with this explanation. It works for mine every since. Even the owners manual has a part that says when starting, fully depress the throttle.
Paul and I discussed putting a parallel resistor in the circuit controlled by a switch on the dash to turn to on when ever it was hot out to initially start the car. We both figured it was too much to do for the small number of times it would be needed. A resistor in parallel with the temp sensor would lower the temp sensor resistance, causing a leaner mixture.
hope this will work for you also. No need to replace a good temp sensor only to continue to have the problem still be there. Unless of course, you are having other running issues, then the temp sensor may be going bad and need replacing.
Tom

[rd914]

The head temp sensor is working!
The problem most of the time is this: The heads are aluminum, barrels are cast iron of some type. Aluminum cools off much faster than than the core of the engine. Head temp senses a cooler condition than really is needed, sending that signal to the ECU to enrich the mixture. When in fact a richer mixture is not needed. Simple solution is to start the car with the throttle wide open, opening the throttle before turning the key to on. If you turn the key on first, depressing the throttle fully will send a signal to the ECU to give the injectors a few milliseconds extra pulse, resulting in making the problem even worse. This was learned from a thread I started several years ago because my 76 was doing the exact same thing. Paul Anders answered the thread with this explanation. It works for mine every since. Even the owners manual has a part that says when starting, fully depress the throttle.
Paul and I discussed putting a parallel resistor in the circuit controlled by a switch on the dash to turn to on when ever it was hot out to initially start the car. We both figured it was too much to do for the small number of times it would be needed. A resistor in parallel with the temp sensor would lower the temp sensor resistance, causing a leaner mixture.
hope this will work for you also. No need to replace a good temp sensor only to continue to have the problem still be there. Unless of course, you are having other running issues, then the temp sensor may be going bad and need replacing.
Tom

Thanks for the explanation. Makes a lot of sense. The car runs pretty good except the "hunting" issues I described in my initial post. Does the CHT sensor have anything to do with the "hunting"?