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siverson |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,458 Joined: 5-May 03 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 654 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've been slowly sorting through the mess I made for myself about a month ago at Willow Springs, and have 1 quote to fix the dent.
I'm trying to decide between (A) repairing my chassis, and (B) getting a new chassis and moving all my parts over. I feel ridiculous even considering scrapping my chassis when I see some of the crazy "rustoration" threads here, but the fact is it's probably going to be about the same cost to straighten this chassis versus buying a donor chassis/car and building it back up. I'm going to take this "opportunity" to fix/improve some other things on the car while I have it all apart, but I need to figure out my chassis plan first. Here are my options: A: If I repair my current chassis ($10k - $12k): - Find front clip - Remove Brad Meyeur kit (to be replaced with Engman kit) - Remove/cut existing reinforcing tubes - Celette bench, weld new clip - Fix front right fender/flare (it was also damaged, that strut broke) - Add Engman kit - Add back reinforcement B: Build up a donor car/chassis and move over all my parts ($10k - $15k): - Find a donor car/chassis - Remove all rust/prep chassis. Rust repairs. - Add 4 steel GT flares - Maybe also put this one on a Celette bench first too to make sure it's straight. - Add Engman kit - Add chassis reinforcement - Lots of small modifications I had already made: lower drivers floor/seat, close up a bunch of unused holes/make it cleaner, lots of seam welding, dash modifications, etc, etc ... plus full R&R on the front suspension/etc, but I need to do that regardless of my chassis plan. With A it "my" original car, but with B I actually think I might end up with a nicer end result because I'm going through almost everything again, but it's probably a little more money and A LOT more work for me (versus 95% of A is just me writing a check). Am I off on my prices? So, what do you think? A or B? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) -Steve p.s. And... the other strange factor is that this car/chassis was my first car and I've had it for almost 20 years. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) But, given how much I've already modified the car, most of those "original" parts aren't there anyways. I think if I got a new chassis and moved over all my parts, it would still feel pretty much like "my" car... I'm not super attached to that specific VIN... Or am I? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ![]() ![]() |
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rick 918-S |
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Hey nice rack! -Celette ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,925 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Seriously, Repair the chassis you have. You know the car, You just had it painted so color match shouldn't be an issue.
The car looks worse than it is. Really, I would leave all the welded body panels on the car, drop the engine and front and rear suspension, gas tank, dash, ect. Get it up on the Celette and pull the car. You will need to remove the tubing stiffeners. It will pull easier with them cut out. One the chassis is stress relieved and the front sheet metal is as pre-dimensioned. THEN remove the left fender, both headlight buckets and front nose panel. The rest is simple. If your not putting the car back on the track forget all the extra tubing. You won't need it. Besides, it's dangerous in a street car. Just check over the chassis spot welds for signs of stress. If the spot welds were stressed you will see it. Seam weld the area or drill and plug weld the area and you'll be fine. That was a beautiful and it can be just as nice again. Here's a thread I have started on Sandys Ravenna car. The one was headed for a sawsall party. I saved the fenders. They werte totally kinked. |
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