The restoration begins! |
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The restoration begins! |
993inNC |
Feb 2 2010, 07:07 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 194 Joined: 14-August 09 From: at the beach Member No.: 10,676 Region Association: South East States |
So I hadn't been terribly active here lately since deciding to jump into the resto fire. I had hoped to have a driver i could restore, what I ended up with (from what I can tell) is a good candidate for saving. So I have been stripping it since September of last year. Took the holidays off and just this week really jumped in heavy.
Quick update, its a 75 L13 (Summer yellow) 1.8L and has had a few paint jobs (terrible ones) over its life. I found a media blaster here locally (finally) and I have to admit, I LOVE soda blasting. Makes 35 year old metal look like brand new (other than damaged areas). Was considering sand before finding this guy, but he has convinced me. So far he's done the doors, deck lid and hood (threw my 993 track rims in there since they were looking ratty too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ). Next week, his rotisserie is supposed to be available, so we'll load it up, he'll blast it down to metal (may sand blast the floors to get the nasty rust off and see whats left) and he's going to let me have the rotis for 1 month to give me time to replace the pans etc.... Now the questions Who really has the best price and product when it comes to the replacement metal? I know Auto Atl and Resto Design have them and there seems to be a decent price difference. I know a good many of you have experience with both and since I have none with either, I'd like to rely on what you guys have to say. I'm going to need pans, inner lower firewall, engine tray (holds the engine rubber) under the battery tray, and maybe a couple other small metal bits. I'll need this stuff pretty quick if I don't want to pay for the rotis after a month, so who can I rely on? I'll be posting pics soon for a complete diary of the restoration. Hope I can live up to some of the amazing work I've seen here. I plan to do the pans etc myself, but there is rust in tight spots (underside of doors and small area on the rear decklid) that I don't have the talent for. The blaster was a Mercedes body man for many years and I'll defer that intricate work to him. This is going to get expensive, I can already tell (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Oh as a bench mark, he said its going to run between 12-1400 to do the entire car. Sounded high but what are my alternatives .....? It is pretty work though, and I think is the right thing to do TIA |
993inNC |
Oct 4 2011, 06:29 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 194 Joined: 14-August 09 From: at the beach Member No.: 10,676 Region Association: South East States |
Have any of you guys ever scraped powdercoat out of threads of bolt holes!!! That was the one thing I hated when a customer would bring in a powder coated swing arm with bolt holes chock full of powdercoat. And not to be a shit but I worry more about the areas that you can't easily powdercoat. like the intersections of multiple panels coming together to be spot welded that you see all of the place. and the longs internally. Did you cut a bit of the longs somewhere and seal the inside? So far, I think I can say with a reasonable degree of certainty, that these guys did an outstanding job. I have only found one easily seen spot where they missed with both the media blast and coating (a suspension point), but it was a clean rust free area still covered with a hint of paint so I'm not concerned. They took the time to cover bolts and holes, the vin tag and the vin stamped into the fender, etc... The longs I can't comment on other than to say that there is a little coating that can be seen inside and plan to run an Ospho wash down them before all is done which will carbonize any rust in there. Someone commented about how difficult it will be to sand off. First, I have no intentions of sanding off the coating other than for welding and body work. I did sand some off today with a pneumatic drill sanding disk (forget the grit) and it came off like a champ, not easily mind you (it was on there good), but I got to bare metal with no issues. The coating made it into those multi point locations you mentioned.....its everywhere! Secondly, show me a primer job that covers as good as a good powder coating, and as uniformly thick.... I'm pleased and for $1000 to blast and coat, can't go wrong IMO (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I'd powder coat the car's final color if I knew there would be no body filler, but I doubt that will be the case. |
trojanhorsepower |
Oct 4 2011, 07:06 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 867 Joined: 21-September 03 From: Marion, NC Member No.: 1,179 Region Association: None |
Woo Hooo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
Progress! I can't believe $1000! That seems pretty good to me. I wish I could bring them mine. I am trying to get my shop built so I can't spare the $$. Can you paint over the powder coating? |
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