Here is a how to for dent removal Not just filling it up with plastic, Or... When your cracker jack box has a nasty surprise Options

[rick 918-S]

Like I've said before. When your working on old cars you have to realize they are like a box of Cracker Jacks. Everyone has a surprise. In most cases it's a cheap nasty surprise. In this case The dent in this panel was not that bad. The problem became complicated but the person that filled it in. Instead of working the damage out the person took a pick hammer and drove about a hundred dents in the panel trying to chase high metal from the top of the panel being driven down. Normally I would just replace a panel that was damaged to this degree. But this is a special car. There is zero rust so I will take the time to bump the panel back into shape. There will still be a finishing glaze used but in a manor appropriate for restoration not amature night at the Drive Inn Autobody Shop.

Here's what I Found when I started stripping off the panel.





I used a Tig welding rod so you could see how deep the damage is.




Here are only some of the tools I used. I also used a couple wood blocks ground into different contours as a backer for shrinking.



I'm sure some of you have never really tried to work a serious dent and wonder how to start. In this case I started with this heavy dolly. I used every combination and angle of this thing to get up into the curve. Don't be afraid. Worse case, you end up cutting the panel off and replacing it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Think out of the box. You can't alway swing a hammer up inside a tight panel. Sometimes you need a fist!






Here it is roughed in. I used the above dolly, and a couple other heavy blocks. Just because I call the tools heavy doesn't mean you abuse the panel. Lots of light blows spread out over the area while off hammering on the outside of the panel with help bring things around.




Here's the panel after about 3 solid hours of blocking, bumping and shrinking. I rough in the panel and then spray paint it. You can just dust a light coat of spray paint or use dykem if you have it. Then I use my bulleye pick and carefully and slowly work the low spots out as I check the panel with my body file. This photo is after I filed the panel then used a long board sander with a new sheet of 36 grit to check the panel. You can use the straight lines of the sander and check the panel with a light. The side panel was sanded with a 8" DA





There are still several pick hammer marks left in the panel from the last guy but I will work them out over the weekend and get them close. Like I said there will still be a fine glazing filler used to define the final shape. I think you'll all appreciate the final product.

[andys]

Nice work, Rick.
The problem for an occasional metal working guy like myself, is a selection of different shaped dollies. I've had to make a couple of my own just to get the right contours. It's a big advantage when you can have access to the back side of a panel. When I did my late doors that have the side impact brace, it was pretty frustrating to work....Stud gun was my friend, but it alone produces less than finished results.
What did you use for shrinking? Hammer? Disc? Torch?

Andys

[rick 918-S]

Nice work, Rick.
The problem for an occasional metal working guy like myself, is a selection of different shaped dollies. I've had to make a couple of my own just to get the right contours. It's a big advantage when you can have access to the back side of a panel. When I did my late doors that have the side impact brace, it was pretty frustrating to work....Stud gun was my friend, but it alone produces less than finished results.
What did you use for shrinking? Hammer? Disc? Torch?

Andys

So far just a hammer with a face like a meat tenderizer and a contoured wood block for a dolly. It's slow work. Bullseye pick out the pick hammer marks, tap in a circular motion from outside to center. Check with a file, start again on the next one. There are alot if ways to do it. This is slow and steady. You learn not to abuse the bullseye pick as you can create quite the peak if you over use it. After awhile you can get to where sometimes you don't need to bump back. I made some other heads for mine and modified the target so it swivels. This was you can tip it when you can't get a good swing.

Here's what I mean about the swivel and the soft work with the bullseye pick. Here's a large door dent in this panel. If you were to try to swing a hammer from the back side you would have about a 30% change of hitting the target and not straying as you swing.



Here is the bullseye pick I used.



Here's the dent after I worked it slowly and checking it with a file. You can still see a light hint of factory sealer showing the panel is not over worked.