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jsayre914 |
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#1
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Speed Up !!! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,188 Joined: 10-February 08 From: Timonium MD 21093 Member No.: 8,696 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
I didnt want to screw up my build thread with my anger. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
Building a 2056. Took the engine case, crank, rods, flywheel, cylinders to the local machinest. 2 months later I finally get everything back and pay the man what was agreed. The work that was performed: jugs were bored out to 96mm case was cleaned and check for straightness and bearings pressed in flywheel was cleaned polished crank was polished etc. with rods rebuilt with new bushings (custom) made by machinest and assembled with new bearings supplied by myself. again... crank was fully lubbed and assembled ready to go in. finally everything was balanced and returned to me. FAST FOREWARD I drop off the engine components to Tony @ Translog GT and ask him to assemble the longblock. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) I didnt want to Fudge anything up. And I have great repect for Tony and his buss. Tony calls me today and tells me that the crank was absolutly unusable. He tells me that one or more bolts on the flywheel end were sheerd off and the end was all buggerd up. He cant believe that someone would perform the work that has already been done to this crank. He mentiond a pin also, I really dont know exactly what he is talking about until I see it first hand. He said he will try to shoot me a few pics today, either way I will be picking up my crank and calling the machine shop. I am angry, but still not sure if I am at fault here. I took the engine apart myself, and dropped the components off myself. I told the machine shop to do the work, and I am not expierenced at engine building. This is my first build ! I just threw away hundreds of dollars and 2 months of my build WHAT do you guys have to say>>>>>>>>>> (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) p.s. I am calling the machine shop now. |
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Mark Henry |
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#2
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that's what I do! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
Please post pics of the repaired crank.
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worn |
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#3
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can't remember ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,195 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
From my look at the pix it seems like mostly rust damage connected to destruction of the roll pin when disassembling. I too wonder what the fly wheel looks like. I would guess a mirror image.
If there was enough land left surfaced at three points around the crank the flywheel would sit fairly true and might balance. I wonder though if that one would at full bolt torque. I also assume that the roll pin is there for positioning, so how can you attach the flywheel for balancing without the roll pin. I agree that something is wrong and a new crank might be the path of wisdom. However, if the crank is turned true and the fly wheel surface is also checked out the shim solution ought to work. As long as the machinist takes the trouble to get the flywheel centered and true. Just a guess - the machine shop doesn't do a lot of work with these engines? |
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