Official Sasquatch Re Build Thread, Part 2 New Rotary then, new trans, all german turbo |
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Official Sasquatch Re Build Thread, Part 2 New Rotary then, new trans, all german turbo |
Mike Bellis |
Mar 4 2012, 09:45 PM
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#1
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,346 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
I started a new thread for the re build of the Turbo wankel project.
Here is a link to the begining. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113156 With a little help from my Brother and Son, we got the car into the garage and I tore the engine out. It took a little over an hour to pull. The turbo looks ok. It's a little dirty but I can't see any knicks in any blades. Shaft play is minimal and it spins wirh air without drag or noise. I will have to take it apart to find any further signs of damage. As expected, I blew the apex seal of rotor 2. The white specks in the picture is where the seal should be. There is very fine grit in the exhaust port. Rotor 1 looks fine. Time for a rebuild or JDM crap motor. I will have to look at my budget, A rebuild is 2-3 times the cost of a JDM motor. Either way, all the components will bolt on. There is a chance if I go JDM, that I will have to modify the engine brace for different motor mounts. Here's some pics of the package... |
Mike Bellis |
Mar 12 2012, 08:31 PM
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#2
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,346 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
Progress!
I found an out of work guy that just totaled his Rx7, 2000 miles after he rebuilt it. His Loss, my gain. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) The motor mounts are different, so some fab time this weekend will ge it fitted. Most every thing else will bolt right on without massaging. I need to find a 54mm socket so I can swap the flywheel and counterweight. I may have it running by the end of the weekend. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) The motor has a mild port and was assembled with early (better) rotor housings. Note the early NSU Wankel License. I also swapped the crank angle sensor since the plug matches my EFI and I know it works. I do need to slightly grind down a tab on the old water pump housing to clear on this engine. The main difference on this engine is the oil injection pump. The old one was an electronically controlled stepper motor. The new one works via a cable connected to the throttle body. My TB has a connection point for cruise control, so I will fab up a custom bike cable to operate it. Should be simple in theory (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Look like I will have a running 914 for WCR 2012!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) |
strawman |
Mar 13 2012, 10:34 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 885 Joined: 25-January 08 From: Los Osos, CA Member No.: 8,624 Region Association: Central California |
The main difference on this engine is the oil injection pump. The old one was an electronically controlled stepper motor. The new one works via a cable connected to the throttle body. My TB has a connection point for cruise control, so I will fab up a custom bike cable to operate it. Should be simple in theory (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Why not just pre-mix like a two-stroke engine? That way you know you're getting lubrication no matter what. Or would that gum up the spark plugs? Either way, I'm subscribed! |
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