Official Sasquatch Re Build Thread, Part 2 New Rotary then, new trans, all german turbo |
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Official Sasquatch Re Build Thread, Part 2 New Rotary then, new trans, all german turbo |
Mike Bellis |
Mar 4 2012, 09:45 PM
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#1
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,346 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
I started a new thread for the re build of the Turbo wankel project.
Here is a link to the begining. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113156 With a little help from my Brother and Son, we got the car into the garage and I tore the engine out. It took a little over an hour to pull. The turbo looks ok. It's a little dirty but I can't see any knicks in any blades. Shaft play is minimal and it spins wirh air without drag or noise. I will have to take it apart to find any further signs of damage. As expected, I blew the apex seal of rotor 2. The white specks in the picture is where the seal should be. There is very fine grit in the exhaust port. Rotor 1 looks fine. Time for a rebuild or JDM crap motor. I will have to look at my budget, A rebuild is 2-3 times the cost of a JDM motor. Either way, all the components will bolt on. There is a chance if I go JDM, that I will have to modify the engine brace for different motor mounts. Here's some pics of the package... |
Mike Bellis |
Apr 8 2012, 09:24 AM
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#2
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,346 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
The new upper intake mocked into place. The new TB has a water connection for cold start. Hopefully, it warms up better, although it worked fine before without it. I am waiting for the TB snorkel to connect to the intercooler. Even without it, I can get it running and tuned without boost.
The oil filler tube needed modification. It hit the new TB. I have a plan to make it work but i'm waiting untill the final bolt down of the manifold. I had to replace the hose on the right. I got damaged while loading the car on the trailer. I changed the transition piece from threaded steel pipe to thick wall copper. I found 1.25" radius elbows. one 90* and one 45* with a T in the middle for the heater connection. This will connect the radiator return line into the water pump inlet. I'm not a big fan of copper but this seemed like a reasonable compromise and it flows better than the threaded piping. This is the only copper in the system. |
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