Engine rebuild, The reassembly started ! Options

[Valy]

I got a spare engine with my car. The engine looks nice but the PO drained the oil out and left the sump open. Then he wrapped it in plastic wrap and dropped the engine on the left head so it has a nice crack.
Got myself a new pair of heads that are rebuilt right now.

It's going to be a big L-Jet as I don't have the patience to deal with the old D-Jet (although I have all the parts for a D-Jet). I
I'm going to make it a 2056cc unless in change my mind and go crazy with a bigger crank (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I started taking the engine apart and going to document as much as I can.

Not my first rebuild but is my first Type4 rebuild so wish me luck!

Today I got pistons 3 & 4 out.

#3 looks nice, not too much signs of wear. The ring gaps are about 1mm (trash)
#4 is also nice but the piston got a small bent while trying to remove the pin. That bent trapped the oil ring. Never mind, I'm going for bigger one anyway.

The cylinder registers are nice. In fact, the entire case is very nice and clean.

Anyone knows the meaning of the inscriptions on the cylinders and pistons?

[Valy]

Oil Pump

After my oil pump saga described in the previous posts, I decided to go with a new Type 1, flat cam, 26mm aluminum oil pump. I didn't like the Melling steel pump since the heat expansion of steel is less than aluminum so at high temperatures the pump leaks into the case.

I also got a nice aluminum pump cover. Some will say that the aluminum cover will wear out faster than the steel one but that is misleading as there are no axial forces on the pump gears to cause the wear, except a too tight fit of the cover. In the later case, the wear is fine as is just the pump brake in. The original Type 4 pump was full aluminum so I have no worries.

The new pump has a perfect fit into the case hole without any play but its pinion is a bit too long and pushes the camshaft. Also, the inlet and outlet don't overlap 100% with the case.
One solution for everything would be a 1.5-2mm spacer between the pump and the case, just where the pump gasket sits. I didn't like the idea as it may cause leaks down the road.
I chose to trim the driving pinion, pump case and idle shaft about 2mm and also make a thicker gasket for the pump. I also opened a bit the case oil galleys just in case I'll need to change the pump without taking apart the short-block.