Official Sasquatch Re Build Thread, Part 2 New Rotary then, new trans, all german turbo Options

[Mike Bellis]

I started a new thread for the re build of the Turbo wankel project.

Here is a link to the begining.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113156

With a little help from my Brother and Son, we got the car into the garage and I tore the engine out. It took a little over an hour to pull.



The turbo looks ok. It's a little dirty but I can't see any knicks in any blades. Shaft play is minimal and it spins wirh air without drag or noise. I will have to take it apart to find any further signs of damage.



As expected, I blew the apex seal of rotor 2. The white specks in the picture is where the seal should be. There is very fine grit in the exhaust port. Rotor 1 looks fine. Time for a rebuild or JDM crap motor. I will have to look at my budget, A rebuild is 2-3 times the cost of a JDM motor. Either way, all the components will bolt on. There is a chance if I go JDM, that I will have to modify the engine brace for different motor mounts.



Here's some pics of the package...

[Andyrew]

Boxter trani, Well that blows the budget right out of the water (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

6 speed or 5?

[Mike Bellis]

Boxter trani, Well that blows the budget right out of the water (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

6 speed or 5?

Whatever I get my hands on. See if I can work a deal with Parts Heaven. See them on ebay from $400-$3200(Boxster). Same VW trasnny $300-$1600. Same Audi teanny $800-$2400. All the mounting points are similar, The differential, hubs and gearing are different but similar. The mounts have to be fabbed anyway, so any will workk. Boxster looks like the cheapest in the long run if I include my fab and engineering time. The key is bolt on shfiter, no fab or engineering. Exact same bell housing. 100mm flanges that will bolt up to my 911 CV's. I just have to figure out axle lengths once its in.

So it will be mostly Porsche with a little Audi to keep it interesting. This version will be a ~250hp, factory reliable motor. I intend to keep the MAF sensor and I found a Lambda converter to scale my wideband O2 0v-5v output to the 0v-1v input to the ECU. Should run even better in closed loop. 034 Motorsport is going to reflash my ECU to remove all the equipment I removed from the car. No limp mode, unless an active sensor triggers it. ODBII will still have access but my read modified.

Al at Parts Heaven asked me to bring the car as is to the swap and show in June. I'll drive it there and back then pull the drive train. Selling off the rotary stuff and H gear tranny. If you want anything PM me.

Been busy on the donor car. Stripped the wiring out wire by wire. Once you get the interior out there are a shit load of wires to pull. I started with the radio and speaker/amp harnesses. Easy to spot and took out a lot of wires. Switched to the tail lights. followed those to the front and removed. Then air bag, abs, AC, interior lights, wipers. I was left with some relays, fuse panels and misc extra wiring. I then pulled out a schematic and got it down to the EFI, Steering column and gauge cluster. It still runs!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Its ready to pull out compleatly. Should be an easy transfer. I'm keeping the gauge cluster. It needs a little trimming to fit the stock dash, not too hard. Then I get to keep most of the idiot lights and dash comoputer that says "STOP Low Oil Pressure". Turn signal and high beam lights should work too. I might even be able to get the traction control to work if I fab sensors to the wheels.

Hers a couple pics of the stripped dash and wiring...







Here's a pick of my getto intake tube, just used to verify the car was running throughout the operation...