OT: Working on my shop car, The wagon Porsche never built. . . Options

[aircooledtechguy]

I've had a long term project going now to turn my '67 Squareback into my shop car. While I love driving my 914, it has limitations as a daily parts hauler. I love old styling with new technology and updates, so my goal is to turn my humble Square into the wagon that Porsche never made. I want it to drive and handle more like a Porsche than a VW wagon and it's got to be a true "Sleeper" (not a real problem; since it's a wagon). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1324689630.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1324689631.2.jpg)

This has been a 4-5 phase project.

Phase-1 - Convert it to Porsche 914 2.0L motor. Make it physically adapted to the car and running MS2 w/ Ford EDIS ignition. Get it tuned to be a daily driver. DONE!!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1324689631.3.jpg)

Phase-2 - Make the motor look good and freshen it up with new P&Cs. The heads were freshened only about 2K miles before I got it, by me when it was in a clients 914 that he converted to Subie power. I noticed that once I had a few miles on it myself, it was using a bit of oil. So I upgraded to a new set of 96mm P&Cs. So now it's a 2056.




I had my local powder coater do all the tins in black and the plenum and runners in grey for a stock look. I'm running T-4 H/Es with a modified bus header and a Summit Racing Flow Master clone muffler. So I had those ceramic coated in black so they are not attention grabbers from the back. This car is a sleeper (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)



DONE!!

Phase-3 - Convert the rear suspension to the later style IRS and install a Porsche 923 trans out of a Porsche 912E. The rear suspension is DONE!! While at it, I upgraded it with 914 rear brakes, urethane bushings, adjustable spring plates and a rear sway bar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1324689632.4.jpg)

Since the trans is taller than a stock 4-speed and cutting into the car can't happen due to rear seat issues. I gained the 1.5" I needed by spacing the body off the rear suspension with spacers. So here I sit, on the final leg of phase-3. I now need to couple the motor/trans and lift it into it's final place and fab rear engine hanger mounts for the rear bar. It's late and I'm tired. . .

Phase-4 - Front suspension upgrade. Currently in-work

Phase-5 - Paint so it doesn't look so crappy, though it does add to the "sleeper" persona. . .

Stay tuned for more later. . .

[speed metal army]

I love this thing! Buddy of mine is scooping a notch next week...
Question!
Why the heck did you weld up the tank,then braze on fittings? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[aircooledtechguy]

Question!
Why the heck did you weld up the tank,then braze on fittings? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

That's a great question. . .

When building the tank, I had to remove the super long neck at the base and shorten it. The filler necks on the tanks are originally brazed on at the factory. I believe it's because it was easier to have a guy braze the tight fitting slip-joint rather than have to weld it by hand. The joint is originally like a sweated copper plumbing pipe joint. The reason I brazed my new neck on was because once you have metal that is contaminated with brass from previous brazing, there is no way to weld to it with a MIG, TIG or any other traditional welding method, so your only option is to braze to it again.

The two half shells are machine welded together with a machine that welds as it rolls along the seam (kind of a rolling, continuous spot welder). Since they are welded in the traditional way without brass, I could simply cut the joint apart and then weld to it.

As for the return nipple on the bottom,. . . I already had the oxy/acet. torch out but the real reason is that for sealing up a small tube like that where the fit is really tight, brazing is the easiest and cleanest solution. Welding a tube that is almost laying flat against the tank is a total PITA to get sealed then you risk burn-through in the process. Brazing it takes seconds and burn-through is darn near impossible.

[speed metal army]

Question!
Why the heck did you weld up the tank,then braze on fittings? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

That's a great question. . .

When building the tank, I had to remove the super long neck at the base and shorten it. The filler necks on the tanks are originally brazed on at the factory. I believe it's because it was easier to have a guy braze the tight fitting slip-joint rather than have to weld it by hand. The joint is originally like a sweated copper plumbing pipe joint. The reason I brazed my new neck on was because once you have metal that is contaminated with brass from previous brazing, there is no way to weld to it with a MIG, TIG or any other traditional welding method, so your only option is to braze to it again.

The two half shells are machine welded together with a machine that welds as it rolls along the seam (kind of a rolling, continuous spot welder). Since they are welded in the traditional way without brass, I could simply cut the joint apart and then weld to it.

As for the return nipple on the bottom,. . . I already had the oxy/acet. torch out but the real reason is that for sealing up a small tube like that where the fit is really tight, brazing is the easiest and cleanest solution. Welding a tube that is almost laying flat against the tank is a total PITA to get sealed then you risk burn-through in the process. Brazing it takes seconds and burn-through is darn near impossible.

Well there ya go! Makes sense to me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)