Elden MK.10 Formula Ford, Resto/rebuild thread Options

['73-914kid]

I know it's not Porsche content, but I figured some of you guys would be interested in seeing the car as it undergoes a down to frame rebuild.

A week ago my dad and I went ahead and purchased a Formula Ford, something we both had talked about doing for getting myself involved in racing. My dad got his start in Formula Fords, so we thought it would be fitting I do the same. We stumbled on this car locally, so it was convenient for us to get it instead of trying to go out of state. It is a 1974 Elden MK.10, one of the last Mk.10's imported from England by Carl Haas. (like pretty much every english racecar it seems)

Overall the car is in pretty good shape, but being me, I didn't trust the preparation of the car, and we noticed some cracked brazing, so down to bare frame it comes to fix things that need to be fixed, and do things our way.

Here's the starting pictures, the morning after we picked it up:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i260.photobucket.com-9714-1347406292.1.jpg)
Today's project has been removing the suspension and bodywork all around the car To prepare for removing the aluminum skin and other parts. I must say, there is an odd vibe with this car, where there's so much to do, you don't know what to do first. I've come to the conclusion that since everything needs to come apart, a list will help keep things sane. So far, all but the front left corner have been removed, bagged, and tagged.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i260.photobucket.com-9714-1347406292.2.jpg)


More to come tomorrow, which hopefully will involve engine/gearbox removal.

['73-914kid]

Today was a pretty wasted day I'm afraid. School shopping and gun cleaning meant that the Elden was on the back burner today.

The list is really quite long.. and I guess it's time to make a check list for everything.

-Strip down the car, removal of all suspension and associated compnents
-Re-align shift forks in gearbox.
-New front radiator
-Grit Blast the chassis, and repair the one obvious crack, and re-braze the rear shock mounts.
-Paint the chassis satin black, and nickel coat all suspension pieces.
-re-pipe the engine oiling system with -AN fittings and Stainless braided lines instead of the rubber lines it had on it
-Install Fuel Safe bladder instead of the fiberglass fuel tank/seat
-Run new wiring including battery cables
-relocate Battery to underneath drivers knees
-Retrofit car with an under-knee fire bottle
-Route new brake hard lines and clutch slave line
-Mount Oil cooler on top of gearbox.
-Mount water hardlines to allow for expansion from the chassis.

The motor is in very good shape since it was rebuilt. the logbook has a recorded 6 hours on the rebuild, and compression/leakdown test all say it's in great shape. Plus it burns ZERO oil.

Other than the little things, that's about it, minus bodywork. Luckily most of the bodywork is free of cracks and free of repairs, which is odd for all this original fiberglass, and the two rather severe crashes it sustained back in the early 80's.

[stewteral]

Today was a pretty wasted day I'm afraid. School shopping and gun cleaning meant that the Elden was on the back burner today.

The list is really quite long.. and I guess it's time to make a check list for everything.

-Strip down the car, removal of all suspension and associated compnents
-Re-align shift forks in gearbox.
-New front radiator
-Grit Blast the chassis, and repair the one obvious crack, and re-braze the rear shock mounts.
-Paint the chassis satin black, and nickel coat all suspension pieces.
-re-pipe the engine oiling system with -AN fittings and Stainless braided lines instead of the rubber lines it had on it
-Install Fuel Safe bladder instead of the fiberglass fuel tank/seat
-Run new wiring including battery cables
-relocate Battery to underneath drivers knees
-Retrofit car with an under-knee fire bottle
-Route new brake hard lines and clutch slave line
-Mount Oil cooler on top of gearbox.
-Mount water hardlines to allow for expansion from the chassis.

The motor is in very good shape since it was rebuilt. the logbook has a recorded 6 hours on the rebuild, and compression/leakdown test all say it's in great shape. Plus it burns ZERO oil.

Other than the little things, that's about it, minus bodywork. Luckily most of the bodywork is free of cracks and free of repairs, which is odd for all this original fiberglass, and the two rather severe crashes it sustained back in the early 80's.

Hey ''73-914kid',

GOOD ON YOU for doing the full engine/drive-train removla and restoration!! I believe I must do the same with my Royale. It really looks like "Rode hard & put away Wet!" Since we own Historic cars, they deserve to have someone care enough the bring them back to what they were. I suggest thinking about Workmanship rather than expediency. On my car I've already found so many
"short-cut" back-yard work done on the car. The P.O. owner was an Engineer, but while he was great on ideas, he was WEAK on workmanship. This is not unusual.

All the best to you & your great project,
Terry