Micro1000 CHT Gauge, my preferred setup |
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Micro1000 CHT Gauge, my preferred setup |
McMark |
Jun 13 2012, 10:44 AM
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#1
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
I was asked about which CHT gauge to get and thought that I had posted this info about the Micro1000 over here some time ago. Apparently not. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) So here's my preferred CHT setup because it has an original looking appearance, it's temperature compenstated, and the sensor and wiring is QUALITY stuff. The temperature compensation is important because the crappy VDO setup (and other cheapies) will read 1° off for every 1° above or below 70° inside your car. The VDO wiring can also lead to erroneous readings due to how the thermocouple works and what are called 'cold-junctions'.
CHT Gauge This is the Micro 1000 gauge as mentioned. It ranges from 0-600 degree F or 0-300 degrees C. The top row of numbers is F, the bottom row is C. It's got two thumbscrews on the back for the collar that will hold the gauge in the dash (or wherever). It comes with a bulb assembly included for night visibility (I forgot to take a picture of that). The back has a + and a - connection for the wire extension. You want the 2" version. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.paintandmetal.com-419-1339605841.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.paintandmetal.com-419-1339605842.2.jpg) Sender You will need to buy the appropriate probe/sender for your application. A standard Type IV spark plug is 14 mm. The smaller plugs that Len is using is a 12 mm motorcycle spark plug. I can't vouch for which sender should be used for this application. The sender only comes with about 12" of wire. You will need to purchase an extension lead (see below). The sender comes with a section of heat shrink tubing to protect the screw connections between the sender and the extension leads. The section of wire close to the heat source is protected by a braided wire exterior. This is a very nice feature. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.paintandmetal.com-419-1339605843.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.paintandmetal.com-419-1339605843.4.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.paintandmetal.com-419-1339605844.5.jpg) Extension Leads You will need to purchase either the 7' or the 15' CHT extension lead (make sure you don't accidentally get the EGT leads). These are special wires. You can not use normal copper wire to extend the wires. The wires come pre-crimped with the appropriate connections. So it's a simple plug in installation. I purchased the 15' kit for my 914 as I suspect the 7' is too short, unless you're doing something unique. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.paintandmetal.com-419-1339605844.6.jpg) This is the link to buy the whole setup. And part numbers: Guage: 10-01425 Sender: 10-00823 Extension: 10-01443 |
worn |
Sep 14 2012, 01:38 PM
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#2
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,348 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I was asked about which CHT gauge to get and thought that I had posted this info about the Micro1000 over here some time ago. Apparently not. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) So here's my preferred CHT setup because it has an original looking appearance, it's temperature compenstated, and the sensor and wiring is QUALITY stuff. The temperature compensation is important because the crappy VDO setup (and other cheapies) will read 1° off for every 1° above or below 70° inside your car. The VDO wiring can also lead to erroneous readings due to how the thermocouple works and what are called 'cold-junctions'. I think I could live with a few degrees of fluctuation due to ambient - for one thing you are sort of already able to make a guess about how it is changing from your own built in sensory system and make compensations in your head. On the other hand there is build quality. I thought I had fixed my VDO oil pressure gauge by replacing the sender, but am I really supposed to have to tap the gauge to bring the needle up to position? I almost pulled the engine based on a crappy (can I say that here?) oil pressure gauge. |
ConeDodger |
Sep 14 2012, 02:27 PM
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#3
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,828 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
I was asked about which CHT gauge to get and thought that I had posted this info about the Micro1000 over here some time ago. Apparently not. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) So here's my preferred CHT setup because it has an original looking appearance, it's temperature compenstated, and the sensor and wiring is QUALITY stuff. The temperature compensation is important because the crappy VDO setup (and other cheapies) will read 1° off for every 1° above or below 70° inside your car. The VDO wiring can also lead to erroneous readings due to how the thermocouple works and what are called 'cold-junctions'. I think I could live with a few degrees of fluctuation due to ambient - for one thing you are sort of already able to make a guess about how it is changing from your own built in sensory system and make compensations in your head. On the other hand there is build quality. I thought I had fixed my VDO oil pressure gauge by replacing the sender, but am I really supposed to have to tap the gauge to bring the needle up to position? I almost pulled the engine based on a crappy (can I say that here?) oil pressure gauge. "A few degrees of fluctuation due to ambient" would be about 90 right now where I am, and at the north end of acceptable - that would be very concerning. I like that correct calibration can be expected from aircraft quality gauges. VDO is not what they used to be. If they ever really were... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
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