Bolt up 160 amp Alternator Kit, "Plug and Play" Options

[pnewman]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) "160 amp" Alternator (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

High Amp Alternator with complete installation kit

A brand new 105 amp alternator with a 160 amp Stator custom made to fit the 914 and TYPE IV VW engines.

Contact me for details: Email is best.
pnewman2712@comcast.net
There is a core charge for your old alternator TIN.

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I was advised that I should use a disclaimer. So here goes.
Alternator Modification
We all realize that modifying or upgrading your car can be dangerous. Modifying and tuning any vehicle with other than the factory approved parts can endanger your safety. No expressed or implied warranty is made as to product's suitability for any use or ability to protect the user from injury or death. The user assumes that risk. Peter Newman and/or manufacturer shall not be liable to purchaser or to any third party for any damages arising out of the purchase, installation, recommendation, or use of any product or combination of products. It is the user's or purchaser's responsibility to determine any specification that may be needed in the use of one of these products.

Reminds me of all of those drug commercials.

Installation:

Pelican has a good page on alternator replacement.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alt_replace.htm

(Below are some details specific to the installation of the upgrade install kit.)

Replace the cooling tin with the one that I modified for you.
Install your new alternator with your new belt (provided.)
Note: This alternator and fan are much bigger than your OEM unit and as such you must make sure of good clearance both at the back (power lug) and the fan in the alternator tin. It is a tight fit. It can be accomplished with the engine in but it is harder to check fan clearance to make sure that the fan doesn't rub the alternator tin. It is important to mention that this alternator unlike your oem unit has a fan and it spins very fast which does produce a sound similar to a turbo charger. You should not hear scraping noises or sounds similar to a dry bearing as this might mean that you have a fan rubbing your alternator tin.

NOTE: If you have contact at the back of the alternator then you may need to adjust your alternator pivot bracket to move the whole alternator forward or aft in the vehicle. (The OEM bracket is designed to be adjusted. See pics below.) If the fan rubs the alternator tin then you may need to adjust the aforementioned U bolt, get a different size belt and or remove more material from the alternator tin.

Utilize ALL of the cables that have been provided to replace your older, worn and now undersized cables. Note that I added a new ground cable that goes between your new battery negative terminal and your upper bell-housing to engine case bolt. Also for better grounding add a star washer between your alternator U-pivot bolt and the alternator.
Do not reconnect battery cables until you are finished with the complete installation and have checked the alternator clearances: front (fan) and back (power bolt clearance with #2 cylinder cooling sheet metal.)

Voltage Regulator:
You will also need to remove your oem voltage regulator (as your brand new alternator has an integral voltage regulator.) Leaving your oem regulator in may act as a bottleneck for the system.

OEM Air duct boot. Leave it in and pointed at your new alternator.

Best of luck with your modifications
Pete

[pnewman]

Why not just get an alternator that fits behind the tin instead of dealing with the tin and the fan?

Great question. I went there first.
Simple answer. I couldn't find an alternator body to fit there that was 100+ amps.

Remember that there is not a lot of room between the head and the alternator brackets. Not for any larger amperage alternator. I tried about a dozen different alternators before I decided on this one. Then I tried about a half dozen alternator body fronts that fit that rear body and would be work-able accomodating the adjustment brackets before I decided on this set up. Then off to the machine shop.

FYI: With this set up you have about 1/4" gap between the main wire bolt and the head. The battery has to be disconnected until all is secured. That took a lot of work to get that 1/4".


Hope that answers some of your questions.

Thanks for asking.

Side note: I have been driving the snot out of this thing since installation. Not one hiccup!