My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Finally starting the thread. First, I never would have done this if it weren't for several of you helping me out, especially Ian at:

Cold Water Conversions

Ian tolerated dozens of questions from me as I decided which way to go. Thanks again!

Here is the candidate (or victim, depending on what side of the fence you are on):



A 1975 1.8L with California Emissions...I've had it for almost 11 years. During that time I have logged about 2800 miles on it. I decided to swap it out for a modern drive train so my daughter could drive it so I started looking for a 2.2L Subie and a 2WD auto trans. This setup CAN be made to work with a custom hanger, but it's not a very exciting trans. Think early '90's Camry or Corolla acceleration. I'm sure it could be re-geared but an Audi trans would probably be a much better option.

Then I found and SVX for cheap and changed directions entirely. Looks like my kid will be learning to drive a 5 speed Subie!

So far I have:



Strong running SVX engine



2006 WRX trans purchased from NASIOC



1990-1992 Honda Accord shifter Update - you cannot use this one unless you design something to reverse the shifter mechanism operation. Since it is designed for the trans in front of the car the mechanism moves in the opposite direction (mirror image) of what is needed. I ended up using an MR2 shifter.

If you don't feel like chasing this stuff down Ian will source it for you.

Next up I'll post the highlights of the SVX strip-down and note some of the pitfalls, valuable parts, and stuff to be careful not to break!

Any feedback, comments, questions, concerns are welcome. I want to do it right.

[a914622]

If our going to use the stock ecu (i recomend) the hole dash has to come out to get the wire harness "liberated". Big pain but just remove all the 10mm 12mm you can see and feel. There are bolts behind the ac vent covers.
Funny when the masive 8 foot wire bundle is cut down its almost as small as the teener.

You should check the engine wires harness for britleness, and plan on getting new vaccuum lines. I found most all the seals were hard or cracked on both of mine.

jcl

[Chris H.]

If our going to use the stock ecu (i recommend) the hole dash has to come out to get the wire harness "liberated". Big pain but just remove all the 10mm 12mm you can see and feel. There are bolts behind the ac vent covers.
Funny when the massive 8 foot wire bundle is cut down its almost as small as the teener.

You should check the engine wires harness for brittleness, and plan on getting new vacuum lines. I found most all the seals were hard or cracked on both of mine.

jcl

Funny you should say that...I just came in from the garage. Wow there are a LOT of bolts in that dash. Will post pics in the am when I pull that wire bundle out. Couldn't take another minute of it for today. Definitely using the stock ECU and a good portion of the overall harness. Seems easiest.

This car is starting to remind me of the old days when I had VWs. Tools required:

10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket once in a while
screwdriver

I'll definitely replace all of the rubber lines and re seal the engine as well since it's out. More to come...