My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Finally starting the thread. First, I never would have done this if it weren't for several of you helping me out, especially Ian at:

Cold Water Conversions

Ian tolerated dozens of questions from me as I decided which way to go. Thanks again!

Here is the candidate (or victim, depending on what side of the fence you are on):



A 1975 1.8L with California Emissions...I've had it for almost 11 years. During that time I have logged about 2800 miles on it. I decided to swap it out for a modern drive train so my daughter could drive it so I started looking for a 2.2L Subie and a 2WD auto trans. This setup CAN be made to work with a custom hanger, but it's not a very exciting trans. Think early '90's Camry or Corolla acceleration. I'm sure it could be re-geared but an Audi trans would probably be a much better option.

Then I found and SVX for cheap and changed directions entirely. Looks like my kid will be learning to drive a 5 speed Subie!

So far I have:



Strong running SVX engine



2006 WRX trans purchased from NASIOC



1990-1992 Honda Accord shifter Update - you cannot use this one unless you design something to reverse the shifter mechanism operation. Since it is designed for the trans in front of the car the mechanism moves in the opposite direction (mirror image) of what is needed. I ended up using an MR2 shifter.

If you don't feel like chasing this stuff down Ian will source it for you.

Next up I'll post the highlights of the SVX strip-down and note some of the pitfalls, valuable parts, and stuff to be careful not to break!

Any feedback, comments, questions, concerns are welcome. I want to do it right.

[Chris H.]

Happy New Year everyone!

Just a bit more progress to report. Should drop the drive train today or tomorrow. A few pics...





So here's the cause of the "slight" exhaust leak. This is the pipe coming off of the main cat... man that thing was loud... check out those welds!



In case you are looking for an SVX to drive (not part out), the areas to check for rust are the doors as well as the whole belt line of the car. Like Honda Civics of that era and others, the SVX has a plastic lower panel. Water can get trapped under the plastic and cause rust. Other than that it seems OK aside from the leaky sunroof issues.



Oh no rust in the long! not really...just surface. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



The windows are a PAIN to get out...Step 1 is to undo all of the bolts you can reach with the windows UP. Then roll them down and do the rest. The windows will not come out if they are rolled up. Best to leave the battery hooked up or close by in case you have to roll them up or down again.



Don't wrestle with the shifter from the top. You can take off the trim but it's almost impossible to remove that way due to the position of the cable bolts. Get it from underneath.



To disconnect the engine fuse box/wiring harness you do not need to cut a section of fender like I did. Just follow the wiring into the cabin and they are connected to the back of the main fuse panel. Pull the engine panel out and connect it RIGHT BACK.





Conversely the best way to remove the SRS sensors from the fenders without cutting the wires is to cut a slightly larger hole and push them through so they end up in the interior of the car. Don't wrestle with trying to remove the wires from the main control module. There is something more to that process that is not worth wasting time figuring out...



Plenty of room around the engine once you get the peripherals out. My plan is to cut the front area where the radiator was and roll it out the front of the car. We'll see if it works!

Thanks for all of the support and suggestions! We should do a "best practices since these swaps are becoming pretty common. Love the dental pick idea, and ruby914 I followed your build on Club NARP. Awesome work. Your dash is amazing. Wish I could use a WRX gauge cluster...