Rick - I need your help, chassis twist Options

[TravisNeff]

A few years ago I got a new welder, I welded everthing in site... Needless to say I never understood shrinkage.

I installed an Engman kit and not only did I rosette weld the kit in, I fully stiched the whole thing. The end result, a stiff chassis - but a bent tub.

My door gaps are totally fuquered. My passenger rear fender was replaced and they must have welded the front, then the back and I have a weird bubble in my fender well. So not everthing is the same.. My passenger side gap has been messed up since I got the car, huge gap at the back of the door.

Here's my measurements, not to be reconciled with the factor charts too much, I am sure I am measuring from different dimensions than that. Anyways my measurements are from the same spots side to side

Targa opening D 62.7, P 63.5 CM
Latch to hinge D 110.5, P 110.5 CM
Diag mid latch plate to top of targa D 109.4, P 108.4
Front bulkead to targa, D 42.6, P 141.5


My guess is:
the passenger cowl fell in, so did the drivers side
The drivers targa fell in, passenger stayed staticd (lots of welding on the e-brake area)

Pics to follow....

[sofi2t81]

Good to follow that thread.
I have the problem that the PO messed up my passenger door gap when restoring the hell hole. He welded in the inner wheel house without supporting the longs, so my door gap is 1mm at the top.
My plan is to but the car on jack stands. Push the door gap open like you did and then weld in the Engman kit with little heat as possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Do you think that would work, or do I have to cut the longs? (I don’t like that idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) )

Peter

[rick 918-S]

Good to follow that thread.
I have the problem that the PO messed up my passenger door gap when restoring the hell hole. He welded in the inner wheel house without supporting the longs, so my door gap is 1mm at the top.
My plan is to but the car on jack stands. Push the door gap open like you did and then weld in the Engman kit with little heat as possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Do you think that would work, or do I have to cut the longs? (I don’t like that idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) )

Peter

If there was no chassis stiffening done yet you should be able to move the gap. Once there, be sure to brace it before welding. Don't forget to check the targa top opening as you go.

[jdlmodelt]

Good to follow that thread.
I have the problem that the PO messed up my passenger door gap when restoring the hell hole. He welded in the inner wheel house without supporting the longs, so my door gap is 1mm at the top.
My plan is to but the car on jack stands. Push the door gap open like you did and then weld in the Engman kit with little heat as possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Do you think that would work, or do I have to cut the longs? (I don’t like that idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) )

Peter

If there was no chassis stiffening done yet you should be able to move the gap. Once there, be sure to brace it before welding. Don't forget to check the targa top opening as you go.

Do I understand that to mean that if there was no chassis stiffening done then there is no cutting to do...just put the power jack in and straighten?