Testing my AAR's ?? Options

[cary]

Well I'm finally getting around to testing my 2 AAR's.
Looks like either of them work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Stuck open. Both of them. Bench tested both of them. Neither of them get warm. Ten minutes on the battery charger and still open.

The problem is, I've adjusted the idle mixture with a stuck open AAR. So that's why I have a piss poor warm idle.
The question is, now thats it's 50 degrees in the AM and 85 during the day, can I just take it out of the loop and plug the holes ? Starts crappy any way with the screwed up AAR.

I have an AAR in my $250 parts car. I'm going to test it next. All have the same part #. Funny thing, the 2 cars that have 1.7's and I paid the least for always seem to have the best working parts. To bad the rust god got to them so badly.

[Dave_Darling]

Use a good penetrating oil on the AARs that are stuck. You may be able to free them up.

On the ones that never warm up, you can repair them by opening them up. Bend back the crimped-over lip that holds the "lid" onto the "can". I used a hammer and a chisel (one that inexplicably has a precision-formed screwdriver tip on the end of it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ) You'll find a broken piece of resistance wire down in there.

Solder a 12-ohm 1-watt resistor in series with a 1-ohm 1-watt resistor (very close to each other).

You'll need to make sure the wire going into the bottom of the can is not shorting to ground. If not, then you can use the inner end of that and solder the new resistors to that. If it does, you may need to remove the wire and run a new one in with good insulation.

The other end of the two-resistor chain gets soldered to the inside of the can. This is the ground path for the heating element. Make sure that none of the conductors touch the can except at the end, but don't insulate the resistors from the air inside the can. They are serving as the heating element, get it?

Verify that you have 13 ohms resistance from the end of the wire to the can. Make sure that you can still fit the lid back onto the can, and that the resistors don't rub on the bi-metal spring or the other "guts" of the AAR. Re-check the resistance after you get the top back on; you can bend the lip in only one or two places if you don't care about how it looks.

Now plug the AAR in and test it. It should close in ~10 minutes of getting +12V.

--DD