Throttle valve R&R, 1.7 liter et al |
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Throttle valve R&R, 1.7 liter et al |
r3dplanet |
Mar 12 2013, 08:00 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 679 Joined: 3-September 05 From: Portland, Oregon Member No.: 4,741 Region Association: None |
So I decided to pull the throttle body (valve) from my car in order to rebuild it. The throttle valve had a tendency to leak and stick. It was also moderately dirty. At the time I was on a personal mission to pull and restore every major component of the D-Jet system. Since then, I've performed similar operations on the MPS, AAR, etc. Perhaps I'll document those operations in a similar way.
My car is a 1971, but the engine is a 1973. I know that other engines use a top-mounted throttle valve, but it's actually quite similar to the side-mounted units like mine. I realize that this isn't superorbital propulsion engineering, but it might be helpful to somebody. Here's the original setup. You can clearly see the part number 022 133 067 under the muck, along with various scratches and nasties. In this photo you can see that there's quite a gap around the brass air valve and inner diameter of the main bore. It seals if the valve is fully closed, but even the smallest relief of the lever allows air to pass. |
r3dplanet |
Mar 12 2013, 08:42 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 679 Joined: 3-September 05 From: Portland, Oregon Member No.: 4,741 Region Association: None |
Installation is the reverse of removal.
A little blue Locktite wouldn't be a bad idea here. It's doubtful that you want one or more screws flying into a combustion chamber. Also make super triple sure that the air bypass valve is completely clean. One more thing you'll congratulate yourself for if you use an ultrasonic cleaner. Make sure that the throttle shaft rotates perfectly smooth inside of the new bushings. Also make sure that there isn't any wobble or slop at all. Super critical. |
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