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> CV joint bolt torque., Re-torqued the next day.
Elliot Cannon
post Mar 16 2013, 02:48 PM
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I guess this goes under the "for what it's worth" collumn but I recently bolted up my inner CV joints. I used gaskets and torqued them down. I waited till the next day to safety wire them and decided to re-torque them. Each bolt turned an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Some of you might already use this tightening technique but I thought I'd post it anyway. For what it's worth. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 16 2013, 09:07 PM
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I stopped using gaskets as there is no way to accurately tq the bolts with a compressible substance in the mix.
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Elliot Cannon
post Mar 17 2013, 01:43 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 16 2013, 08:07 PM) *

I stopped using gaskets as there is no way to accurately tq the bolts with a compressible substance in the mix.

So you can never accurately torque a bolt that compresses a gasket? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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pcar916
post Mar 17 2013, 07:35 AM
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QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Mar 17 2013, 01:43 AM) *

So you can never accurately torque a bolt that compresses a gasket? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)


You can but it'll change. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I stopped using gaskets... forever ago. With a gasket, if the CV compresses the gasket enough for solid metal to metal contact no problems. But I believe that those particular gaskets (which is very stiff) hold the cv apart from the flange. In that case there will always be a correction later. Frankly a silicon O-ring would be better in this application than the gaskets we use.

Long ago I would over-torque by two-three pounds to avoid the gasket compression problem until converting to high-temp silicon instead. Without the gasket, installation is slightly more difficult (on the car) because keeping the contact surfaces free of grease is sometimes tough. The CV floats in and out and occasionally pushes grease out while fitting it to the flange. Then you have to start over to clean the surfaces again (with acetone/lacquer-thinner/MEK/enamel-reducer, or your other favorite petroleum solvent) or it'll leak.

CV's that have all bolts are IMHO easier than those with roll-pins since they can fit up to the flange without having to push the CV so far back.

An added measure of sealing can be had with some aluminum tape around the CV/flange joint. It's a pain to remove but so is slung CV grease.
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